With demand for clean beauty on the rise, two startups have co-developed a fossil-free moisturiser that benefits the skin and the planet.
Fossil fuels are all over our skins – more than 70% of cosmetics contain petroleum-based ingredients. And the way they’re made and packaged is harmful to the planet and our bodies.
The cosmetics market is one of the largest industry contributors to water use, ocean pollution, and wastewater, and only 13% were free from microplastics. These particles flow the waterways and affect more than 630 marine species, while also entering the food system and harming human health.
Data shows that more and more people are concerned about climate change, and are willing to shell out a little extra for greener products. Nearly half of consumers (46%) globally are buying more sustainable items, and 80% are happy to pay more for them.
Within the beauty and personal care industry, ‘natural’ is the top purchase motivator for a third of consumers, and only 7% say clean beauty isn’t an important consideration when buying these products.
Biotechnology has an opportunity here, with sustainability non-profit Provenance labelling it one of 2024’s three biggest beauty trends. In fact, searches for ‘sustainable beauty’ are up by 200% since 2019.
A bio-based answer to a key skincare ingredient
With these trends in mind, Danish biotech firm Cellulgy has created EcoFlexy, a biofabricated rheology modifier for personal care products. Rheology modifiers are used for thickening and viscosity, as well as making cosmetics easy to pour and flow when force is applied.
Most rheology modifiers on the market are derived from petrochemicals, but EcoFlexy is made from high-purity, crystalline cellulose. This is produced by a specific strain of bacteria, which bioconverts sugar via fermentation.
The fully biodegradable ingredient is making its commercial debut in a skincare cream in collaboration with fellow Danish firm Bioli. The product is based on bioactive enzyme technology for antioxidant protection, and centres EcoFlexy in its formulation to achieve the desired texture.
Bioli explains that while other modifiers like xanthan gum are widely available, they can have a sticky and unpleasant texture and be less efficient than their petrochemical counterparts. EcoFlexy, the brand argues, allows it to provide superior sensory attributes while preserving sensitive active ingredients.
“A key challenge in premium skincare is finding sustainable ingredients that deliver both performance and a superior user experience,” said Bioli CSO Aldo Seguel.
“EcoFlexy provides that essential high-quality texture and a silky-smooth feel that doesn’t grain up on the skin. It delivers all this while at the same time ensuring our products remain biodegradable and environmentally friendly.”
CEO Nina Wiberg Rosenquist added: “The partnership arose through both companies having offices in the Alfa Laval Innovation House. We immediately saw a shared vision, developed product samples, and quickly established that EcoFlexy would be a great match for Bioli’s needs.”
EcoFlexy suitable for multiple industries
The regulatory clampdown against environmentally harmful products is accelerating. In the EU, for example, several member states have imposed restrictions on microplastics, while the European Commission has banned the use of certain types of PFAS (also known as forever chemicals). This has put a strain on cosmetic manufacturers, forcing them to improve their sourcing and formulations.
Speaking of regulations, EcoFlexy has obtained Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) status in the US, and so can be applied to a host of industries, including food, packaging and hygiene, in addition to beauty. It can also be used as a mechanical strengthener to improve the resistance of composite materials in packaging, textiles, construction, and automotive industries.
“In EcoFlexy, we’ve developed a solution that’s now ready to be adopted by manufacturers looking for the high-performance of petrochemical rheology modifiers with the sustainability benefits of biobased options,” said Cellugy co-founder and CEO Isabel Alvarez-Martos.
The Moisturizing and Protecting Day Cream has been earmarked as the first in a series of new products to follow. Currently, it is only available on Biolo’s online store, but the companies are in talks with retailers and pharmacies in Denmark. Cellugy – which has raised nearly €5M ($5.2M) in seed funding – is also in discussions for distribution of EcoFLexy in 11 key markets in the US and the EU.
“In our mission to launch high-quality bioactive products with the lowest possible environmental impact, including biodegradability, we have been searching for the right ingredients. Cellugy aligns perfectly with this,” said Rosenquist. “The collaboration also shows that when ambitious, forward-thinking companies come together, how rapidly and agilely we can move from R&D to market-ready products.”
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