Lien Arits stepped off a plane in Cairo on a sweltering June evening. The Belgian politician wore heels and make-up at border control to avoid looking like an activist. It was a sensible precaution: the previous day, 40 members of the Dutch delegation to the Global March to Gaza had been denied entry to Egypt.

Arits was travelling to the action with three fellow members of the Belgian Green party – but to avoid being identified as a group, they agreed to act like strangers. No talking at the airport; no eye contact on the plane.

Weeks earlier, Arits and over 4,000 others from more than 80 countries had signed up for the march, which planned to take participants just 30 miles from El Arish to Rafah over three days between 15 and 19 June.

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