From gas protein and bean-free coffee to cultured quail and upcycled kombucha, Fura is opening up the future of food to Singaporeans.
One of the hottest additions to the Asia’s 50 Best Bars list last year, the cult bar is putting sustainability at the heart of its operations and championing an inventive, future-facing menu.
Both a cocktail bar and dining destination, Singapore’s Fura has made a big splash since opening in October 2023, with its menu labelled as a Journal of Future Food. The first edition, for example, featured dishes like XOXO, Tempe, featuring mushroom XO sauce, pomelo, and a chimichurri made from Solein, the gas protein by Solar Foods.
Meanwhile, one of the cocktails on offer was called Got Milk?, a combination of Empirical Soka, pandan, honeydew, and kombucha made from Very Dairy, the animal-free milk commercialised by precision fermentation startup Perfect Day (which has since been discontinued).
Now, co-owners Christina Rasmussen and Sasha Wijidessa are embarking on the next step in Fura’s journey, with the second volume of its future food menu. Among the highlights are Vow‘s cultured quail (and its residual ‘tallow’), a novel take on the Dirty Banana cocktail with Prefer’s beanless coffee, and a triple-corn cocktail highlighting the benefits of crop diversification.
“We want to change the way we eat and drink by giving a glimpse of what our diet could look like in the future due to climate change,” Rasmussen, previously the head forager at Copenhagen’s world-renowned restaurant Noma, tells Green Queen.
Cultured quail walks into Fura
A Quail Walks Into a Bar, featuring Vow’s Forged Parfait | Courtesy: Kahying
One of several establishments using Australian company Vow’s cultivated meat in the city-state, Fura takes things a step further, using not just the Japanese quail parfait, it is also making use of the startup’s fat byproduct.
A Quail Walks Into a Bar is the eatery’s first dish using the cultured quail, which is sold under the Forged brand and was approved for sale in Singapore last year. “The Japanese quail has a buttery, smooth parfait texture, which is piped and torched on top of a hazelnut biscuit, garnished with dill cream and acidic malt apple gel to cut the richness,” describes Rasmussen.
“We’re then also using a byproduct of making the quail cells from Forged as our ‘butter’ for the Bread & Butter(ish). This is formed into a candle, which is lit just before serving and topped with pink peppercorn, garlic and Maldon salt,” she says. “The melted result serves as a dip for the black garlic bread, sweetened with brown bananas.”
This innovation doesn’t stop at the food – the cultured quail has also made onto Fura’s cocktail menu. “A Quail Walks Into a Martini showcases the use of cell-cultured meat by rooting it in a familiar drink, a dry martini,” she says. “The quail is infused into gin and dry vermouth; a caramelised fennel puree is then sous vide and fat-washed with gin to complete the rich and dry drink.”
Fura uses this technique often to integrate less familiar ingredients into the menu “By connecting them to something familiar, our guests will recognise and feel comfortable ordering [them],” says Rasmussen.
In addition, Singaporean startup Prefer’s bean-free coffee – made by fermenting waste bread, soy milk pulp and spent brewer’s grain – appears in two menu items. It’s part of the New Age Sando, which combines the coffee alternative with an apricot kernel ice cream, raspberry crisps, and marigold.
Plus, in Fura’s take on a Dirty Banana, the coffee is replaced with Prefer’s version, which is mixed with Empirical Ayuuk, dates, cardamom, and lacto banana cream.
Fura’s New Age Sando, featuring Prefer’s bean-free coffee | Courtesy: Kahying
Turning future food from ‘intimidating’ to something ‘approachable’
Apart from future food startups, Fura works with a range of local businesses to source its ingredients, including GreenLoop Farms, Mother Dough and Bewilder.
These make it onto the menu in innovative ways too. Take the 3 Crop Corn cocktail, for instance, which is aimed at promoting crop diversification as a strategy for lowering emissions and supporting regenerative landscapes.
“The name refers to a three-crop system with a small grain (represented by the sorghum grain from the Empirical Soka), summer legume (showcased in corn silk vermouth), and cover crop (a garnish of mustard frills from GreenLoopFarms),” explains Rasmussen.
Another aspect of Fura’s sustainability is waste reduction. Its menu has an Ugly Delicious section to include ‘wonky’ fruits and vegetables that don’t make it in retail stores and would otherwise be thrown away. The eatery ferments these to make fruit wines and kombucha.
“We make all of our kombuchas in-house. We have three different flavours: #01 is a blackberry, fennel and black tea kombucha, #02 is a raspberry, pineapple and milk kombucha, and #03 is a grapefruit, coconut and green tea kombucha,” says Rasmussen.
“The milk kombucha is the byproduct from one of our old cocktails, where the ‘whey’ was in excess and we used it to help soften the sharpness of acidity in our kombucha.”
Fura’s Journal of Future Food, Volume Two | Courtesy: Kahying
Aside from food, Fura avoids using cling film and works with reusable piping bags, and makes paper mâché with used receipts, which are then repurposed as product cards for their retail section. These types of measures are what helped the establishment achieve the Sustainable Bar Award by Asia’s 50 Best last year.
“Everything on our food and drinks menus highlights ingredients that are prevalent, invasive or in abundance due to the imbalance of our ecosystem. Our guiding principle is to look for ingredients that have low carbon emissions,” says Rasmussen.
“We understand it can be intimidating for people to live in a way that helps work towards a more sustainable future, so we want to make that more approachable by showing people small steps they can take through food and drink.”
Hiro Technologies, an emerging startup based in Austin, Texas, has come up with an innovative way to reduce plastic waste from diapers, all via fungus.
“Diapers are the number one source of household plastic waste and the third largest contributor to landfills overall,” says co-founder Miki Agrawal, the founder of viral period underwear company Thinx. “Each baby goes through [around] 5,000 diapers. The very first disposable diaper ever made? It’s still in a landfill today. We knew there had to be a better way.”
Her startup’s solution is MycoDigestible Diapers, which come with a blend of plastic-eating fungi that, when discarded, activate and help break down soft plastics way faster in landfills.
Dubbed SuperHiro Fungi, the decomposition technology aims to address the waste created by the 18 billion diapers that enter US landfills every year, each destined to sit for 500 years and leaking microplastics into our soil and water. The MycoDigestible Diapers can begin breaking down in less than a week.
An idea sparked from a children’s book
Courtesy: Thinx
Agrawal rose to fame as the CEO of Thinx, the period underwear brand she co-founded with her sister Radha (herself the founder of sober early-morning dance party movement, Daybreaker).
Thinx went viral for its innovative marketing campaigns (think suggestive grapefruits and dripping egg yolks that were temporarily banned from the New York subway ad system). “We kind of became the poster child for the period feminist movement, which I was totally fine with,” she told Elle in December. “We received tons of press, and the business was able to scale.”
Then, in 2017, over halfway through her pregnancy, a former Thinx employee filed a sexual harassment complaint against Agrawal, who denied the allegations but agreed to settle the dispute, eventually stepping down from Thinx.
A couple of years later, thanks to her toddler son Hiro, she had an epiphany about the diaper industry. “If breast milk is liquid gold, baby poop must be fertiliser gold,” she recalled thinking. “Why are we wrapping this potent fertiliser in plastic and not harnessing it for good?”
Right then, Hiro came into the room and asked her to read him a book. She picked up a climate-centric children’s book and began reading, turning the pages long after her son had become distracted and run out from the room. A few pages in, the book featured certain kinds of fungi that eat plastic.
This was Agrawal’s eureka moment. She soon teamed up with Tero Isokauppila, the founder of mushroom coffee company Four Sigmatic, and established Hiro Technologies.
Given the success she’s had with Thinx (worth $230M at its peak) and her savvy eco bidet company Tushy, no one should bet against Agrawal and her diaper revolution.
How fungi can help break down plastic waste
Courtesy: Hiro Technologies/Green Queen
The startup, which has raised $54,000 in an oversubscribed crowdfunding campaign on Kickstarter, notes that plastic-eating fungi were first discovered by scientists in 2011. Until now, they have been constrained to labs.
Its commercial and shelf-stable tech targets plastic at a molecular level, breaking it down into soil and mycelium without any specialised industrial composting facilities or energy-intensive processes.
Here’s how it works: once parents throw the packet away with the used diaper and it reaches a landfill, the fungi activate in the presence of moisture and start breaking down the diaper’s materials from the inside out.
Traditional landfill conditions are typically too dry, oxygen-poor, or contaminated for materials to decompose naturally, but the fungi secrete enzymes that target and sever the carbon bonds in plastic, transforming it into mycelium and nutrient-rich soil.
The initial iteration is optimised for polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polypropylene (PP), and polyethylene (PE), which together account for two-thirds of all plastic produced. Hiro Technologies explains that the carbon backbone of many plastics is fairly similar to that of lignin (a naturally occurring polymer that is the chief constituent of wood).
Fungi have evolved over millions of years to be able to break lignin down, and their enzymes have the ability to break down plastic too. “It’s literally in mushrooms’ DNA to break down complex carbon materials,” explains co-founder Tero Isokauppila. “We’ve simply re-trained them to do what they already kind of knew how to do.”
Hiro Technologies working on larger-scale projects
Courtesy: Hiro Technologies/Green Queen
Plastic is responsible for 3.4% of global greenhouse gas emissions – a share set to grow as production triples by 2060. And despite 430 million tonnes of plastic waste being generated every year, only 9% is recycled.
The problem with that, meanwhile, is that there’s no end-of-life solution for common plastics, and many ‘eco’ plastic alternatives end up being a blend of different materials (including virgin and/or recycled plastic too), which beats the point.
“In the absence of effective recycling, we’ve built a circular, scalable alternative,” Isokauppila says. “We believe the end of plastic begins with mushrooms.”
The fungi-powered solution, which won the 2024 Hygienix Innovation Award, can transform the carbon in plastic into carbon that supports soil and plant growth, as well as other life.
Hiro Technologies is now working with waste facilities and landfill operators to embed its fungi technologies more broadly across their systems, with a long-term goal of creating an entire ecosystem to help break down other plastic waste at scale.
The startup also wants to partner with manufacturers, brands, and waste management companies to become a global supplier of plastic-eating fungi.
“We’re not waiting for policy to catch up. We’re not waiting for corporations to change on their own,” said Agrawal. “We’re doing it now. With our hands in the dirt, and fungi as our partner.”
Eco fashion pioneer Pangaia has launched (gaia)PLNT Nylon, a sportswear capsule collection derived from a bio-based, fossil-free monomer.
British material science firm Pangaia has unveiled its latest sustainable clothing innovation, this time taking on the nylon industry.
Its latest capsule collection, called (gaia)PLNT Nylon, is centred around Evo, a 100% bio-based polyamide derived from castor bean oilseeds made by Italian textile company Fulgar. The four-strong performance wear lineup is available for a limited time, ranging from women’s skirt and unisex track pants to jackets for women and unisex applications.
According to the company, the collection “channels a utility-inspired silhouette, blending structured tailoring with crisp, architectural lines to embody quiet confidence in everyday wear”.
Why we need bio-based nylon
Courtesy: Pangaia
Invented by DuPont in 1938, Nylon was the world’s first fully synthetic polymer, and became popular for its durability, flexibility, and strength. It’s omnipresent today, appearing in clothing, seat belts, airbags, tents, parachutes, and even films for food packaging.
Since it’s a type of plastic that is primarily derived from fossil fuels now, nylon is highly problematic. On top of its sizeable carbon footprint, nylon is not biodegradable, and even with proper disposal, it can cause microplastic pollution and contaminate the waterways as the microfibres are often too small to be captured by many water treatment systems.
Further, producing nylon requires large amounts of water to cool down the fibres and facilitate the chemical reactions that turn them into cloth. In addition, the energy-intensive process generates nitrous oxide, a greenhouse gas over 300 times more potent than CO2. In fact, to produce two square metres of nylon, the associated emissions are equal to driving 37km in a gas-powered car.
Pangaia claims Evo is a material that combines the strength and versatility of conventional nylon with a reduced environmental impact. It offers a high-performance, renewable alternative to fossil-derived synthetics.
It’s derived from castor bean plants, a resilient, non-GMO crop that requires minimal water, thrives in dry conditions, and doesn’t compete with food crops. It’s turned into Evo yarn via a low-impact process that lowers emissions by 25% compared to conventional polyamide, according to an ISO-certified life-cycle assessment.
How does the plant-derived nylon perform?
Courtesy: Pangaia
Pangaia’s process transforms renewable biomass into high-performance polymers, lowering the reliance on petrochemicals and offering a circular, responsible alternative without compromising strength.
Evo is 25% lighter than conventional polyester while maintaining high durability and covering power. The material provides superior moisture management, dries in half as much time as conventional nylon, and boasts natural thermal insulation to regulate body temperature. Plus, the yarn has an anti-bacterial property to control odour, making it suitable for both active and everyday wear.
According to Pangaia, each piece in the new collection is designed using “next-generation biomaterials” – although to note that the zippers are made with recycled PET tape. so not all aspects of the collection’s garments are degradable, which is an important point when considering an item’s end of life and how it can, or will, be disposed.
While innovative companies like Pangaia work to test a new generation of textiles, in reality some new materials are still being tested and better understood in terms of toxicity and environmental impact. One peer-reviewed study published last September showed that certain bioplastics can be just as toxic as petroleum-based versions, though this has has more to do with the chemical manufacturing processes and required additives to make them rather than their plant-derived origin.
Although the researchers looked at materials used for packaging – and castor bean fibres weren’t part of their study – it’s an important reminder that even bioplastics need to be tested and regulated for consumer safety (and transparency).
The launch is part of a growing market for bio-based nylon, which was valued at $1.8B in 2023 and set to double over the next decade. It comes as apparel and fashion brands face calls to decarbonise their offerings, with sustainability becoming a priority rather than an added benefit.
Fellow eco-materials firm Genomatica converts renewable carbon into the precursor to nylon, resulting in fermentation-derived nylon pellets and yarn. This innovation was used in a t-shirt line by activewear giant Lululemon in 2021, resulting in a 50% reduction in emissions compared to conventional nylon.
Pangaia itself retails a recycled nylon collection, featuring discarded materials like old fishing nets, fabric scraps, and industrial plastics,
James Murdoch, founder of circular tech firm Alchemy, argues why circularity isn’t just good for the planet – it makes business sense too, and smart tech brands know it.
The circular economy – the infrastructure by which we collect used products and give them a second life – is no longer a niche concept confined to environmental summits or corporate pledges. It’s already shaping how products are designed, manufactured, and brought to market.
Circularity means designing products that are durable, repairable, and reusable, and creating an infrastructure to keep them in the marketplace. At this point, it’s not just an environmental initiative -it’s good business. Consumers, brands, and industries are waking up to a simple truth: waste is expensive, and efficiency pays.
The brands getting ahead are the ones embedding circular principles right from the start. This shift indicates more than a response to consumer or regulatory pressures – it’s a change in mindset.
Leading the charge
If any industry has made circularity a reality, it’s technology. Over the last decade, major tech manufacturers have normalised trade-in programmes, where you exchange old devices in return for credit toward new ones. These programmes succeed because they reduce waste and offer tangible benefits: consumers get value for money, and brands keep their customers’ loyalty.
Secondary tech has grown into a thriving sector. The key to this success lies in product design: devices built with longevity in mind have better lifespans and hold their value for longer.
Since founding Alchemy and refurbishing over ten million electronic devices, we’ve seen firsthand what makes products suitable for the circular economy. The best performers are those that have aspirational value, an ecosystem worth buying into, and a trade-in programme that is regulated and easy to access. Designing products that are reliable over several generations, with accessible parts and multi-year software updates, inadvertently prioritises circularity, too.
Courtesy: Alchemy
The role of regulation
In the US, regulations supporting a circular economy are still in the early stages, with some measures laying the groundwork for broader circular practices. For example, parts of the Inflation Reduction Act provide incentives for domestic manufacturing of clean technologies, and new regulations limiting ‘forever chemicals’ (PFAS) reflect a growing need to design products with long-term environmental impact in mind.
In our experience though, change is mostly being driven by the private sector, which is responding to changing consumer behaviours, while also grasping the business case for offering a circular solution.
How business leaders can advance a circular economy
Regulation will naturally play catch-up, but in the meantime, companies that want to build a circular economy will need to be proactive. For those looking to refurbish and remarket products, three key strategies that can be implemented quickly include:
Move away from flash sales: Brands that have constant flash sales damage their trade-in programmes. There is less incentive to buy a refurbished, older model if the new one is only 10% more while a sale is on. By offering high-quality, certified refurbished goods at a discount, brands appeal to new customers who might otherwise opt for a lower-end competitor product. For example, instead of choosing a new, lower-cost, non-brand smartphone, many will choose a refurbished iPhone 11 at a similar price but with a longer warranty and a trusted brand.
Follow the secondary market closely: You must understand how the secondary market behaves so you can anticipate changes, rather than react to them. At Alchemy, we have an almost encyclopaedic knowledge of device prices over time – this is crucial.
Identify policy and infrastructure gaps: Companies must prepare for potential legal complexities, particularly in regions where access to circular markets is restricted or where laws around product reuse are increasing.
Work with experienced partners: Many manufacturers’ existing systems need to be designed for the second-hand market. It requires facilities for grading and refurbishing products, managing inventory, handling sales logistics, and much more. Outside experts have the infrastructure, systems, and know-how to manage, refurbish, and sell used products at scale. This allows companies to focus on their core business and ensures that their circular programmes are efficient, profitable, and aligned with brand standards.
Circularity is going mainstream
Circularity isn’t just happening in electronics or accessories. IKEA and Unilever have recently announced circular initiatives, including the ability to trade in and buy second-hand directly from them, and driving used packaging collection.
Even the fashion industry – traditionally focused on churn – has begun experimenting with circularity through trade-in, repair and resale programmes. These efforts go beyond eco-friendly branding; they signify a long-term strategy where profitability aligns with sustainability.
There is also a major commercial opportunity in circularity. According to the World Economic Forum, transitioning to a circular economy could generate up to $4.5T globally by 2030. Companies that engage in it have better brand equity, and they capture a growing segment of consumers – those who want newer functionality but are neutral about having the latest model. These buyers would have previously gone elsewhere, but now, they’ll join a top-tier brand’s ecosystem.
Courtesy: Alchemy
Designing for circularity from the start
The foundation of a circular economy is laid in the design phase – products must be built with their second and third lifecycle in mind. This requires attention to several key factors. Firstly, and most obvious, is durability – manufacturers that place focus on quality products that last longer and benefit the most from circularity.
Repairability is also very important, but a product that lasts twice as long as another will naturally have a much lower carbon footprint than its cheaper alternative. It often starts with design – I’ve seen time and time again that devices built with longevity in mind make all the difference.
In tech, consumers are now more interested in buying refurbished devices because we’ve got to the point where they trust the process. This behaviour is setting a template for other sectors, from fashion to furniture, where information about reusing or restoring items has become trendier and easily accessible.
Compliance or competitive advantage?
Leading companies see circularity as a strategic opportunity to differentiate themselves. Trade-in programmes and secondary marketplaces help companies tap into the “quality over quantity” mindset among customers. But these initiatives only work if the process is seamless – consumers need simplicity and full transparency every step of the way.
Brands that embrace circularity today aren’t just future-proofing their operations – they’re setting themselves apart in a marketplace that puts affordability, loyalty and sustainability first. If tech’s circular journey shows anything, it’s that good design reduces waste, and keeps customers happy – everyone wins.
Based in Cologne, Vytal Global has raised €14.2M ($15.5M) in growth funding to fuel the expansion of its reusable food packaging solutions.
German eco packaging startup Vytal Global has secured €14.2M ($15.5M) in investment to scale its operations across Europe and enter the US market.
The company has just secured €8M ($8.7M) from Inven Capital and NRW.Venture, adding to the €6.2M ($6.8M) it raised in a funding round last summer. It brings the company’s total venture capital raised to €26M, a sign of investors’ faith in its smart reusable packaging solutions that outperform single-use on cost.
“This new funding comes less than nine months after our last raise and reflects an incredibly successful 2024 for the Vytal team,” said Vytal co-founder and managing director Tim Breker. He added that Inven Capital’s expertise would allow the firm to scale up and “make tech-enabled reusable packaging the new standard in gastronomy, events, and entertainment globally”.
Courtesy: Vytal Global
Taking on single-use plastic
Founded in 2020 by Josephine Kreische, Fabian Barthel, Sven Witehöfft, and Breker, Vytal utilises data analytics to deliver cost-effective solutions to single-use plastic packaging for a range of businesses.
Its business model combines reusable products with smart tech and “seamless service”, with integration into multiple point-of-service (POS) systems, adaptable operations, a fair pay-per-use pricing system, and a large selection of containers.
These include microwaveable bowls in several sizes; burger, pizza and sushi containers; cutlery; and coffee cups. They’re made from materials like polypropylene, thermoplastic elastomers, and/or stainless steel, depending on the product.
So while the company is providing an alternative to single-use plastic, it doesn’t ditch plastic altogether, arguing that the “key difference lies in the circular system”. “Single-use plastic has a short usage span but a long lifespan, taking 20 to 450 years to decompose. That’s why we rely on our reusable system: the plastic has a much longer life cycle and is fully recycled at the end of its ‘life’,” the company says on its website.
“Today’s packaging solutions, especially single-use plastic packaging, are unnecessarily energy- and resource-intensive compared to smart reusable packaging solutions,” said Kristyna Machova, investment director at Inven. “We value Vytal’s innovative use of data and technology as a key differentiator, fostering a circular economy where reusable packaging is cost-competitive as well as superior in user experience.”
Courtesy: Vytal Global
Vytal looks to go global with big partnerships
In the space of five years, Vytal has employed a successful tech licencing platform to create a network of subsidiaries across Europe, and says it is servicing 7,000 partners in 24 countries.
Last year, it expanded internationally and added franchise partners in Albania, Greece, the UAE, and South Africa, and set up a dedicated business to serve global brands like PepsiCo, UEFA, and Live Nation’s Insomniac Festival Group, among others. This marked its expansion beyond hospitality into large-scale companies and events.
Now, it is taking its expansion journey even further, with a large portion of the new funds dedicated to taking the business into the US, while strengthening its foothold in Europe. The capital will also help enhance its technology and unlock new brand partnerships, building on the 19 million tonnes of packaging waste Vytal says it has diverted so far.
Courtesy: Vytal Global
According to the UNEP, reusable packaging systems can provide a reduction of over 20% in total annual plastic leakage into the environment by 2040. Meanwhile, converting just 20% of single-use packaging to reuse models is forecast to be a $10B opportunity.
And consumers recognise this too, with 64% of Brits agreeing that reusable, refillable and returnable packaging models are more effective at cutting waste than recycling. Another poll suggests that 80% of consumers in the UK and the US believe we have a collective responsibility to reduce single-use plastics, with 57% worried about the amount of single-use plastic and unrecyclable materials in takeaway food and drink packaging.
This is putting the onus on businesses to greenify their packaging, putting firms like Vytal in the spotlight. In 2024, it nearly doubled its revenue, just as other eco-packaging companies like Notpla, Nfinite Nanotech, and Ionkraft all secured funding.
“We have been following the Vytal team and progress since the early days and are convinced that they are best positioned to reap the business opportunity of transforming the packaging industry towards circularity,” said Machova.
In a decade, Omar Shihab and his team at Boca have pioneered how restaurants approach sustainability, championing local produce from a historically barren region.
“In a way, we’re living the future today,” says Omar Shihab.
He is the owner of Boca, a Spanish restaurant in Dubai’s financial district, which was last month named the most sustainable eatery as part of the Middle East and North Africa’s 50 Best Restaurants list.
Shihab opened Boca in 2014 in a country that relies heavily on food imports to meet 90% of its population’s needs. The establishment’s ethos is rooted in local sourcing, waste management, and rigorous emissions reporting.
“We are a restaurant that exists in a very tough part of the world when it comes to resources,” he notes. “We practically live in the desert, where less than 2% of the country’s lands are arable, [where] there is water scarcity… [an] extreme climate.”
He argues that the trajectory of climate change will make other regions in 50 years what the UAE is today. “So if we’re able to showcase what sourcing could look like in such an arid climate like the UAE… [we can] create a blueprint with what we have today for the future,” he says. “This is my perspective on the future of food.”
Greenwashing isn’t on the menu
Courtesy: Boca
Boca’s 31-page Sustainability Manifesto lays out its five key pillars: local sourcing, waste management, renewable energy, emissions reporting, and community.
These, Shihab says, are key to avoiding greenwashing. “We’ve gone all the way because this is a fairly newer… concept in the region. And I was extremely adamant about providing full transparency [and] data-backed information.”
It was important to publish “everything we’re doing” and share best practices with the industry. “We never say that we are perfect. We are at one part of the journey,” he states. Nevertheless, such information – from energy consumption to the percentage of food wasted – can be a good baseline to build upon.
Boca partnered with a carbon management consultancy to audit its production and operation life cycles and calculate its carbon emissions. “We have put our model to the test because it was extremely important for us to avoid any form of greenwashing or to simply seek advice from the experts within the sustainability field,” says Shihab.
Shihab acknowledges that audits are “extremely expensive and time-consuming”, and only a handful of restaurants can spend the time and money required. That shouldn’t stop businesses from doing something, though. “I think AI can come in really handy here – if through very minimal inputs from the restaurant, you’re able to upload the information and get the rough impact of your restaurant, it’s a great place to start.”
If a restaurant can communicate clearly and in a transparent manner what it is doing to be more responsible – whether it’s sourcing from a specific farm or applying certain techniques in the kitchen – it can go a long way. “That’s really how you can start and avoid greenwashing when it comes to food,” he says.
It’s why Boca’s menu highlights the restaurant’s sustainability initiatives – its used oil goes towards biofuels, its organic waste is composted, and it runs on 100% renewable energy – as well as the carbon footprint of the dining experience (15.01kg per person).
Planet-friendly doesn’t have to cost the Earth
Courtesy: Boca
Shihab believes there are many “low-hanging fruits” that foodservice businesses can start with when it comes to sustainability – something as simple as switching off the lights at the end of the day, or installing smart taps.
He recalls how, when the plastic straw debate reached fever-pitch, Boca decided to measure which waste categories were the most critical. “You cannot change what you can’t measure,” he says.
The restaurant appointed one of its staff members as the waste officer, with a small cash incentive each month, and their role was to segregate six types of waste from the entire operation. Instead of appointing auditors and high-end tools, the low-tech approach involved placing a scale at the back-of-house exit where each item of waste was measured by weight before it left the premises. The data was consolidated on a spreadsheet, allowing Boca to make data-guided decisions.
Plastic was near the bottom of the list – the heaviest amount of waste came from glass. This prompted Shihab to overhaul Boca’s glass usage, installing water filters and working with its beverage suppliers to initiate a pickup programme for glass. “It’s just rethinking and organising and prioritising, rather than spending money,” he outlines.
The hard part, he believes, is getting buy-in from the restaurant’s stakeholders, whether it’s the owners or staff. “Convincing and getting people on board to understand and speak the same language – that is where time and effort needs to be implemented.”
At the end of the day, profitability is one of the three Ps in the sustainability world, alongside people and the planet. And the planet-friendly practices Shihab is advocating for can be an enabler for businesses, bringing in major cost savings that can go back into the bottom line – even a 1% reduction in costs is “huge for the restaurant industry”.
“If you’re replacing sourcing your ingredients from conventional farms, for example, with ones that have higher environmental credentials, you’re immediately offering a more premium ingredient that you’re able perhaps – depending on your business – demand slightly higher margin,” says Shihab. “There are considerable savings or contributions to an improved revenue split overall.”
Culinary techniques to reuse waste
Boca executive chef Patricia Roig | Courtesy: Boca
So how does Boca’s sustainability push come to fruition on the menu? The team created a one-page sourcing policy stating that it will always look for ingredients grown locally with high environmental credentials and at the right price.
“We understand that we can’t use 100% of local produce, especially in the challenging environment that we live in here in the UAE,” Shihab points out. In that case, Boca will look regionally or globally – though here too, it will prioritise foods that come with climate certifications.
The other priority for Boca – which has a Michelin Green star – is waste reduction. “Most professional chefs are trained by craft to maximise the utilisation of everything that comes to them,” he says. “But the idea is to go beyond that.”
This means using vegetable peels and ends to make stocks as well as working out how to integrate these byproducts back onto the menu. Some of the culinary techniques that come in handy here are dehydration, fermentation, and pickling.
As a showcase of these practices, Boca has previously menued a dish called Yesterday’s Bread. It comprised coarsely crushed stale bread seasoned with olive oil and balsamic, forming a base for a salad that also included powdered tomato skins from paella-making and ricotta from milk that’s about to go past its best-before date.
“There’s so much umami in that, and it goes into the seasoning of certain dishes,” Shihab says of the tomato skin powder. Boca’s chefs usually focus on the flesh of the tomatoes, so apart from the skins, they separate the tomato water, which is used by the bar to create beverages.
Meat alternatives and climate-resilient crops
A camel cheese dish with crispy shiitake mushrooms | Courtesy: Boca
As a restaurant, Boca has never been meat-free and doesn’t intend to be either. “We don’t think we are ready to become 100% vegetarian or vegan. We never said we’re going to remove red meat or fish from our menus completely,” says Shihab.
“Our business model is not ready for that, and there is an aspect of balancing the commercial things. Our guests are not ready for this experience, and the business model of the entire restaurant doesn’t allow us to have a smaller base of customers,” he explains. “What we’re going to do is serve less meat, but better meat.”
In addition to that, Boca is aiming to increase the share of meatless dishes versus those with animal protein. However, meat analogues – still in their infancy in the UAE – have no place on its menu, “because our promise to our guests is that all of our recipes are going to be based on natural ingredients that are found on farms or in the wild”.
“We’re going to rely on recipes that we create ourselves. We’re going to buy raw ingredients and transform them into delicious dishes in our kitchen,” he says, outlining that meat alternatives go through “a lot of processing”, a debate that has turned the alternative protein world on its head.
It’s why you’ll find plants and traditional proteins like tofu on Boca’s innovative menu, its chefs impressing guests with dishes like a carnaroli rice risotto with salicornia and tofu, a desert plant salad with strawberries, coconut skin, and tomato powder, as well as a date sorbet with puffed rice noodles. “If it’s a raw ingredient found in nature, then that’s definitely something we integrate into our menus,” says Shihab.
A salad with desert plants | Courtesy: Boca
Climate-resilient crops are an equally important part of sourcing for Boca, which works with organic farms, vertical farming companies, as well as foraged ingredients. It’s also seeking advice from scientists at the International Center for Biosaline Agriculture, who are tasked with finding plant species without cross-genetic modifications, which can grow in harsh conditions and feed on highly saline water.
Think crops like quinoa, millets, amaranth and date – “the original climate-resilient crop”. Shihab notes that these scientists have found halophytes native to the UAE, such as salicornia and arthrocaulon, which can potentially be superfoods high in antioxidants and amino acids. “We’re behind an advocacy program to explore the utilisation of these ingredients into the food industry,” he says.
Highlighting its commitment, Boca hosted a Taste of Tomorrow dinner at the Dubai Future Forum in November, in partnership with the University of Arizona’s Prof Jonathon Keats. The event was built on the climate analogue mapping model to highlight how many places in the Gulf have the future climate of regions in southern Spain, with dishes like a paella made from quinoa and seaweed and oyster mushroom kebabs (instead of the pork-based pinchos morunos).
Hospitality and sustainability need to go hand-in-hand
Courtesy: Boca
These practices are what earned the top three-star rating from the Sustainable Restaurant Association’s Food Made Good certification, and the award from The 50 Best. “It’s an extremely important recognition,” Shihab feels. “It’s a really, really important platform to showcase all the incredible work that a lot of people are doing.”
Do its diners care about all this, though? “The majority of people are aware of the importance of certain practices within the food industry overall. I think people want to know the origin and the provenance of their food. They want to know that, to a certain degree, there is care and attention being applied, from the growing, the farming practices, down to logistics and finally ending with us in our kitchens. So there is curiosity for sure,” he says.
“There is general awareness about how food waste is an extremely problematic area and a huge issue for our nation, whether it’s culturally or religiously or just generally being aware. After the pandemic, a lot of people have become more aware of how this is such a tough industry, so it’s so important to have certain practices that would take care of the community.”
Whether that’s a guiding factor for people choosing to dine at Boca is yet to be seen, he says. Research shows that sustainability is an important factor for two-thirds of diners in the UAE, while an even higher share (73%) places emphasis on local and seasonal products.
“We are, first and foremost, in the hospitality industry. Our job and our role is to create beautiful spaces, deliver food, and offer great service and hospitality,” says Shihab.
“Now, the challenge is to do that while maintaining the best practices, in terms of sourcing, care for the environment, waste, [and] community management. That is the challenge that we are up against, and it’s something that we have to do sooner or later.”
From London to New York City, five vegan restaurants possess Michelin stars – here’s what you need to know.
Who says high-end can’t be climate-conscious and ethical?
Across the world, more and more restaurants are greenifying their menus to align with sustainability and animal welfare. It’s a movement that has reached the upper echelons of tweezer cuisine, with Michelin – the tyre manufacturer famous for its food recommendations – increasingly recognising eateries that do their bit for the planet.
To that end, the company introduced the Michelin Green Star with the 2021 guide, rewarding restaurants that go all-in on sustainability, whether that’s to do with their sourcing and suppliers, food waste, and material use. Today, 611 restaurants have a Michelin Green Star.
When it comes to the original stars, though, that honour remains largely elusive for restaurants championing plants. New York’s Dirt Candy and Madrid’s El Invernadero are the only vegetarian restaurants with a Michelin star (each has one star).
Meanwhile, eight fully vegan restaurants have been designated as Bib Gourmand (recognised for good quality and value), and another 19 are “selected” (honoured for good cooking). Only five fully vegan eateries have a Michelin star, with just one sporting all three. Below we list them out.
Eleven Madison Park – 3 Michelin Stars
Location: New York City, US Michelin stars: 3, since 2012 (retained as a vegan restaurant in 2022)
Perhaps the most famous vegan eatery on the planet now, Eleven Madison Park has a storied history. It made its name as the world’s best restaurant with meat-heavy delicacies like its honey lavender duck, but chef-owner Daniel Humm’s mid-pandemic realisation – that business as usual in the food system isn’t sustainable – led to a complete 180 for the New York City establishment.
Always at the forefront of innovation, Humm reopened Eleven Madison Park as a plant-based restaurant in 2021 and retained the three Michelin stars it has held since 2012 a year later. It operates three “hyper-seasonal” menus ranging from four to nine courses and priced between $225 and $365, with current dishes including tonburi with leeks and avocado, and agedashi tofu with brussel sprouts and basil.
De Nieuwe Winkel – 2 Michelin Stars
Location: Nijmegen, Netherlands Michelin stars: 2, since 2022
Courtesy: De Nieuwe Winkel
Led by chef Emile van der Staak, De Nieuwe Winkel has been around since 2011 and is the only other vegan restaurant with two Michelin stars. Translated as ‘The New Shop’, its ethos lies in “botanical gastronomy” – it looks for applications for edible plants from around the world. In addition, it possesses a Michelin Green star too.
The establishment has three seasonal menus: Awakening (for spring), Growth (summer to fall), and Abundance (for winter), all of which cost €195 – think dishes like a sunflower seed risotto, crispy seaweed with scoby, and a chestnut waffle with nut pâté. In addition to its alcohol pairing, it offers non-alcoholic botanical drinks too.
Seven Swans – 1 Michelin Star
Location: Frankfurt, Germany Michelin stars: 1, since 2015 (retained as a vegan restaurant in 2019)
Courtesy: Seven Swans
Seven Swans gained fame as a vegetarian Michelin-star restaurant before Ricky Saward joined in 2018. As head chef, he cooked exclusively vegan food without publicly declaring it, which prompted him to make the move official. In 2019, the eatery retained its single Michelin star.
The restaurant is all about permaculture – using locally and sustainably grown produce, often from its own garden. Seven Swans offers three a seven-course menu priced at €189 (with both alcoholic and non-alcoholic drink pairings) and has a Michelin Green Star as well.
KLE – 1 Michelin Star
Location: Zurich, Switzerland Michelin stars: 1, since 2023
Courtesy: KLE
A dinner-only venue, KLE is a pub-style eatery championing Moroccan and Mexican flavours, drawing inspiration from chef-owner Zineb (Zizi) Hattab’s life. It gained a Michelin star in 2023 and serves modern cuisine with an emphasis on regionality and sustainability.
KLE offers three tasting menus (from four to six courses), priced between 109 and 134 francs. Hattab only decided to make the restaurant plant-based a month before opening and serves dishes like Tortellini alla Panna, Kentucky Fried Mushroom, New York-style hot dogs, and more. It also has the Michelin Green star.
Plates London – 1 Michelin Star
Location: London, UK Michelin stars: 1, since 2025
Courtesy: Plates London
The newest entrant on the list, Plates London is owned by siblings Kirk and Keeley Haworth and won its Michelin star just months after reopening in its current location in Shoreditch. Kirk, who has worked at legendary establishments like The French Laundry and Pied à Terre, turned to a plant-based diet after being diagnosed with Lyme disease in 2016. But he doesn’t want to be stuck with the word ‘vegan’, instead, he makes plants sing for themselves.
The £75, seven-course menu – which officially makes it the cheapest place to eat Michelin-starred vegan food – comprises dishes like barbecued maitake mushrooms with black bean mole, a mung bean and urad dal lasagna, and a raw cacao gateau with coconut blossom ice cream.
More than 175 food businesses across Asia have committed to improving their sourcing policies in light of sustainability and animal welfare, supported by a US non-profit.
A total of 83 food companies committed to implementing improved sourcing and production policies across Asia in 2024, as a result of campaigning by sustainability NGO Lever Foundation.
This is in addition to the 95 such corporate policies secured by the charity in 2022 and 2023 from food companies based or operating in Asia, impacting production covering “several million farm animals per year”.
“We’re encouraged by the growing commitment from food companies across Asia to adopt more sustainable and humane sourcing practices,” said Lily Tse, corporate outreach manager at Lever Foundation.
“These 83 new corporate policies generated last year represent meaningful progress. By working closely with companies of all sizes, from major producers to local restaurants, we’re seeing real transformation in how food is sourced and produced in Asia.”
China plant-based partnerships in focus
Courtesy: Accor Group
Among the corporate policies Lever Foundation says it generated last year are 17 shifts towards improved production systems, and five pledges to significantly ramp up the use of plant-based foods.
According to its website, it has helped shift 29 million corporate meals to plant-based and prevented 82 million kgs of CO2e from businesses each year.
Its impact in China is particularly notable. Lever Foundation partnered with IHG Hotels & Resorts Greater China to make 30% of the group’s offerings plant-based by 2025, a commitment that was matched a few months later by Dossen Hotel Group, and bettered by Orange Hotels, which pledged to convert 70% of its menus to plant-based options at 750 hotels.
Lever China also signed a strategic partnership with the Low-Carbon Hotel Development Institute, a state-affiliated organisation in China, to boost the adoption of plant-based foods in the country’s hotel industry.
These efforts come at a time when plant-based food is becoming more popular in local diets, making up a majority of the country’s protein supply. Polling shows that almost all (98%) Chinese consumers would eat more plants if they were informed about the benefits of a vegan diet.
China may be world’s largest meat consumer – making up 28% of the global consumption growth in the decade to 2023, with intakes set to increase further until 2030 – but experts suggest that half of all protein consumption in the country must come from alternative sources by 2060, if it is to decarbonise.
“The steady growth in corporate commitments throughout 2024 reflects the value of sustained engagement and clear communication for driving positive progress in the food system,” added Kertna Tharmaraja, communications manager at Lever Foundation.
Can Asian hospitality meet the sustainability moment?
Courtesy: Patarapong/Getty Images
The remaining 51 commitments generated by Lever Foundation in 2024 came from companies small, medium and large – including retailers, hospitality groups, bakeries, cafés and foodservice operators – to remove “particularly destructive practices” like caged farming from their supply chains.
Surveys by GMO Research show that at least three-quarters of consumers prefer cage-free eggs in markets like Hong Kong, Malaysia, Singapore, and the Philippines.
In South Korea, Accor Hotels has removed caged eggs from 90% of its operations, and will fully eliminate them by this year, with support from Lever Foundation. This would speak to the 79% of Koreans who believe businesses should use cage-free eggs, and 69% who’re willing to spend more on them in restaurants.
So far, about 40% of the corporate policies it helped introduce have been implemented, with the remainder set to be rolled out in the years ahead, within publicly announced timelines. Of the 83 companies, 77 are based in Asia, with the rest having headquarters in Oceania, Europe or the Americas.
“Lever’s approach of working closely with partners across the supply chain has helped facilitate practical, implementable change that aligns with both business goals and sustainability imperatives,” said Tharmaraja.
“The willingness of businesses to embrace better practices – from improved production systems to expanded plant-based offerings – reflects an encouraging shift in corporate priorities and consumer expectations.”
Courtesy: PwC
According to PwC, 43% of consumers in Asia-Pacific are making more eco-minded purchases, and a third are changing how they eat in line with planetary health. And 55% say they’ll spend more to stay at an environmentally friendly hotel, much higher than their counterparts in the rest of the world (around 40%).
Meanwhile, Lever’s venture capital fund, called Lever VC, recently announced the first close of its Fund II, which will deploy an initial $50M in early-stage agrifood tech startups. Among the first five startups to receive financing are Gavan Technologies (maker of plant-protein-based Savor butter), sweet protein innovator Oobli, and mycelium meat startup Mush Foods. To date, Lever VC has completed over 100 investments in the category.
Are you an enthusiast, a minimalist, or an anxious inactive? A new report categorises consumers into four broad segments based on their sustainability attitudes.
Cost of living and corporate ‘greenhushing‘ – i.e., when companies withhold information about their sustainability efforts, willingly or otherwise – are reshaping the eco-living landscape, with green behaviours declining in the majority of the world.
Self-reported purchases of eco-friendly products declined from 2022 levels in all regions bar the Middle East and Africa, as inflation and anti-greenwashing regulations shake up sustainability marketing. Meanwhile, there has been a decline in the perception that sustainable alternatives to planet-harming products are of better quality – and this is true across every consumer category.
The Say-Do Gap
Courtesy: GlobeScan
Sustainable product companies often encounter a paradox when it comes to consumer behaviour dubbed the Say-Do gap— the difference between what people say they’ll do to be more climate-friendly (e.g. wanting to buy more sustainable products), and what they actually do (buying cheaper, unsustainable products).
Previous research by GlobeScan suggests that 50% of consumers want to live “a great deal” more sustainably – but only 26% say they are making “major changes” towards that goal.
This is despite a growing number of consumers saying they feel the effects of the climate crisis – a share that rose from 31% in 2022 to 45% in 2024 – with over three-quarters finding joy in sustainable lifestyles.
Courtesy: GlobeScan
These are the findings of the annual sustainability survey by GlobeScan, which polled more than 30,200 people from 31 countries across six continents.
The Road to 2025 study found that families with children are more conscious about responsible behaviours, but young consumers are concerningly disengaging from sustainability.
According to the survey, the number of Gen Zers who want to reduce their planetary impact and lower consumption to safeguard future generations has trended downwards, as has the share of youngsters who feel guilty about their contribution to climate change. On the other hand, more Gen Z consumers now feel individuals can’t do much to save the planet.
Brands and governments play a critical role here – they can shape daily behaviours and public attitudes about sustainable living. To help understand how consumers fit within the eco landscape, the report groups them into four categories – from active to disengaged.
Courtesy: GlobeScan
Anxious Inactives
The largest subgroup of sustainability consumers, 28% of respondents fit within the Anxious Inactives category. Broadly, these consumers are concerned about sustainability and feel a significant amount of guilt and anxiety about their impact on the planet – but they feel overwhelmed or unsure of how to act.
This is because they believe individual actions have limited impact (after all, this segment houses the highest percentage of Gen Zers).
For sustainability stakeholders, emphasising easy steps to make progress feel achievable is the best way to engage Anxious Inactives, “helping them break free from the anxiety-inaction cycle”, according to the report.
Indifferents
Indifferents form the least climate-conscious segment and are almost entirely disconnected from sustainability, and make up 27% of the respondents in GlobeScan’s survey.
This means that, taken together, Indifferents and Anxious Inactives account for 55% of global consumers – a key concern for the fight against climate change.
To reach this group, the resort recommends providing general communications to show personal benefits – such as saving money – without overemphasising the sustainability aspect.
Courtesy: GlobeScan
Enthusiasts
There are two main segments of activated consumers, and Enthusiasts – those who improve their consumption habits and engage more fully in sustainable living – take the edge with a 23% share.
This demographic is the most conscious and empowered segment, and tends to be slightly overrepresented in emerging markets, especially Africa. They’re also more likely to be excited about product innovation and enhanced experiences, an insight brands can leverage.
Homing in on the “uniqueness and future-forward nature” of novel sustainable products and services can spark this group’s interest.
Minimalists
Finally, there are the Minimalists. These people (representative of 22% of the world) try to lower their climate footprint by reducing consumption and saving money. They’re driven by practicality and small, impactful changes.
Minimalists are slightly overrepresented in Europe and North America and tend to express their environmentalism in a manner associated with the degrowth movement.
Brands should emphasise cost-effective products, services and behaviours that allow this group to reduce their environmental impact without compromising their financial goals.
Globescan’s report highlights the need to move beyond the one-size-fits-all sustainability messaging so often employed by businesses. By recognising these distinct consumer groups, GlobeScan says brands are better placed to resonate with their needs, motivations and barriers through highly targeted strategies.
Contrary to recent polls about a disconnect between sustainability and dietary change, a new survey has found that 52% of Europeans are changing the way they eat for the climate.
More than half (52%) of consumers in Europe have made dietary shifts over the last two years to lead a more eco-friendly lifestyle, with 29% reducing the amount of meat they eat, a new survey has found.
The poll – covering 10,400 people from 13 European countries, including the UK and Turkey – was carried out by FMCG Gurus, and didn’t identify a primary reason for dietary change among these consumers.
However, while health concerns and animal welfare continue to be important factors, the fact that environmental awareness has driven half of respondents to reconsider what they eat is notable amid growing mistrust in food and sustainability among Europeans.
An EU-backed study last year found that only 36% of consumers believe the region’s food is sustainable, while the number of Europeans who want to live sustainably has dropped in recent years. Meanwhile, in another survey, 57% of respondents said plant-based meat products are worse for the environment than animal proteins, contrary to the evidence.
Livestock farming takes up 71% of the EU’s agricultural land and contributes to 84% of its food system emissions, but meat and dairy only provide 35% of calories and 65% of proteins in the region.
So the FMCG Gurus survey’s results – which suggest that 42% of Europeans are exploring plant proteins and meat analogues – are encouraging.
“Despite the scepticism, there is more and more awareness of the state of the environment – in media, new climate-related activities from governments, and companies,” Martin Ranninger, co-director of V-Label International, told Green Queen. “The interest in plant-based foods is of course not driven only by sustainability concerns, but coupled with other factors,” he added, outlining that climate concerns are contributing to the overall shift.
Brands can win (and lose) big with sustainability
Courtesy: V-Label
Sustainability was the central theme of the survey, and V-Label analysed the findings to find that plant-based proteins present a unique opportunity for brands. “Sustainability is no longer a niche concern. It’s a priority for the majority of consumers with 71.3% saying brands should do more to more to protect the planet,” said Ranninger.
Around six in 10 Europeans list global warming, deforestation and carbon emissions as their leading worries. And 45% believe the damage to the environment is irreversible, and many feel a sense of urgency to act.
But the appeal of sustainability extends beyond just the environment, suggests V-Label, explaining how many consumers link sustainable actions like reducing waste or consuming organic produce with enhanced personal health.
Brands that traverse the health-climate nexus stand to gain here – communicating how plant-based diets can support not just greenhouse gas emission reductions, but also a healthier lifestyle, can deeply resonate with customers.
In fact, companies play an important role in influencing green behaviours, as evidenced by the 69% of consumers who want brands to educate them about sustainability. At the same time, if businesses don’t make the shift, they could lose their customer base.
For example, 38% of Europeans have chosen one product over another because the former is more eco-friendly, while 35% have made greater efforts to find greener brands. And over a quarter have changed retailers to one that is kinder to the planet.
Transparent marketing, authentic sustainability claims, and accompanying certifications can help enhance brand credibility, according to V-Label. “62% of consumers would like to see information about sustainability available on the product packaging and 44% at the point of purchase,” said Ranninger.
To better educate customers about green living, businesses can highlight the importance of more plant-based food in their communications, outreach, and packaging. “In some cases, they don’t necessarily have to talk about their products, but about the whole category – or better yet, about the food system in general,” he told Green Queen.
Addressing the barriers to plant-based consumption
Courtesy: V-Label
Despite the interest in plant proteins, the survey found several barriers that limit more widespread adoption. For many, these products compromise on flavour and texture, and are viewed as more expensive, despite efforts from retailers to match their prices with animal proteins.
Moreover, terms like ‘vegan’, ‘vegetarian’, and ‘plant-based’ are often used inconsistently, which breeds mistrust. And, the survey found, there’s a lack of diversity in the plant-based options found at supermarkets or restaurants.
To that end, V-Label advises brands to expand the accessibility of vegan products in both rural and urban areas, use clear, consistent labelling and certifications to build consumer trust, and emphasise the health and climate benefits of plant-based diets.
Businesses should also develop campaigns that inform consumers about sustainability and the impact of their choices, and continue to innovate by exploring new ingredients and production methods.
Ranninger added that to overcome the awareness gap, brands should “implement educational campaigns, host cooking demonstrations and sampling, and collaborate with influencers”. Additionally, they should attempt to bring down the cost by offering promotions and discounts.
Europe is home to the largest plant-based market outside the US, with Germany making up 40% of the region’s share, racking up €2.2B in sales. And a 2024 YouGov survey based on products using the V-Label found that 46% of Germans are reducing their meat intake, and 22% find plant-based alternatives to be on par with dairy (a six-point increase from 2023). Sales of plant-based food also increased by 10%, outpacing the growth of the overall fast-moving consumer goods category.
“Manufacturers who turn to the plant-based market stand to gain a lot: new customers, greater reputation, and impressive key figures,” said V-Label Germany head Cornelia Contini. “The better companies understand their customer segment, the more courage they have to take new paths.”=
In partnership with an Italian premium fashion mill, Japanese materials innovator Spiber has produced cashmere blends and worsted yarn with its fermentation-derived Brewed Protein.
Japan’s government has also invested tens of millions of dollars into startups making cultivated meat and plant-based eggs while clarifying the process for firms seeking regulatory approval. Former prime minister Fumio Kishida has called these future foods a key part of “realising a sustainable food supply”.
But it’s not just food that Japan is innovating in with sustainable proteins – the country is also taking a lead in the fashion industry through Spiber, a Yamagata-based company that makes planet-friendly materials from Brewed Proteins.
These proteins are derived from microbial fermentation and have been part of offerings from a host of international brands. Now, Spiber has developed a line of cashmere blends with Brewed Protein fibre and a 100% Brewed Protein worsted yarn (a medium-weight yarn) in collaboration with Botto Giuseppe, an Italian premium mill renowned for its natural wool and cashmere fibres.
Both the woollen blends and worsted yarn are now available on Botto Giuseppe’s website, making it the first European mill to successfully develop and market yarn made entirely from Spiber’s Brewed Protein.
Spiber to exhibit Brewed Protein polo shirt at Florence show
Courtesy: Spiber
Founded in 2007 by Kazuhide Sekiyama, Hideya Mizutani and Junichi Sugahara, Spiber says it makes sustainable materials for the fashion, automotive and personal care industries.
The Brewed Protein fibres leverage synthetic biology and material science. Microbes feed on agricultural waste in a fermentation process that results in the creation of polymers, which can substitute cashmere, fur, leather, wool, and silk, as well as plastic-based synthetic fabrics.
Spiber says its production platform is fully bio-based, biodegradable, and cruelty-free – it requires much fewer resources to make its materials and has a much lower climate footprint as a result. For example, its Brewed Protein fibres can emit up to 75% fewer emissions than cashmere, while using 94% less water and taking up 86% less land, similar to fermentation proteins used to replace dairy foods.
The yarns made with Botto Giuseppe are described as versatile and suitable for both knitting and weaving. They can be used in a range of applications, from shirts and suits to jersey knitwear.
In terms of the woolen yarn, the firms have developed two compositions, one with 20% Brewed Protein fibre and 80% cashmere, and another with equal parts of each.
Spiber will showcase a polo shirt made from the 100% Brewed Protein yarn developed by Botto Giuseppe at the ongoing Pitti Filiati show in Florence (January 28-30).
Circular economy alliance finds new partners
Courtesy: Spiber
The two companies are also now exploring finer yarn counts for materials made entirely from Brewed Protein fibres and will collaborate on customisations tailored for specific brands.
“We are delighted to start this new collaboration with the development of such a high-tech fibre. It is a highlight in our sustainability journey,” said Silvio Botto Poala, CEO of Botto Giuseppe.
Spiber has raised $489M in funding to date, including a $65M round last year, and over 15 companies have launched products with its Brewed Protein fibres. This includes Pangaia, The North Face, Yonetomi Seni, Goldwin, Nanamica, Cavia and Woolrich in the fashion industry, Shiseido Japan in the cosmetics space, and Toyota in the automotive world (which unveiled a concept vehicle using Brewed Protein).
And in a boost for Spiber, the International Organization for Standardization revised the definition of “protein fibre” in 2021 to include not just naturally-derived proteins, but also those produced synthetically, alongside setting the minimum protein content required for such fibres at 80%. This made it the first time synthetic structural protein materials have been recognised internationally as a new material category.
Meanwhile, just last week, the BioCircular Materials Alliance – a coalition of industry leaders initiated by Spiber – published its first progress, creating an action plan to drive the industry toward a circular bioeconomy, where biowaste is transformed into new, regenerative materials.
Coinciding with the report was the announcement of 16 new entities joining the alliance, including Stella McCartney, Pangaia, Vollebak and Fashion for Good.
The fashion industry continues to embrace lower-carbon materials. Uncaged Innovations is making a grain-based, plastic-free leather alternative, and has been in discussions with several luxury brands. Faircraft is working with major luxury fashion and leather goods brands in Paris for its cultivated leather. And lab-grown cotton maker Galy is backed by two of the world’s largest fashion brands in H&M Group and Inditex (the parent company of Zara, Bershka, Stradivarius and more).
As awareness about the environmental and welfare detriments of the textile industry grows, a new crop of startups is developing novel alternatives to change the way we dress and live.
If things continue the way they are, the fashion industry will use up a quarter of the world’s carbon budget by 2050.
This is because the traditional materials used by textile manufacturers are terrible for the environment. Cotton is too water-intensive, leather is carbon-heavy, as are plastics, which don’t break down for centuries and are toxic to human health.
Disrupting these categories isn’t a new idea. Look at leather, for example. Synthetic leather has been around since the 19th century when it proved a viable, cost-effective alternative to the real thing. Today, this is a $40B sector that looks to take animal abuse out of the equation, but it’s an industry built on plastic.
Plastic, a group of synthetic polymers made from fossil fuels (coal, crude oil or natural gas), emits more greenhouse gases than the aviation sector, and a third of all plastic waste ends up in soil or freshwater, disintegrating into microplastics that enter the food chain. In fact, these tiny particles have already been discovered in the human body, and one study estimates that we eat 5g of microplastics per week on average (about the same as eating a credit card’s worth of plastic).
Then there’s the waste aspect: every second, the equivalent of one dumper truck of textiles is either landfilled or incinerated around the world. To make matters worse, textile waste has been estimated to increase by about 60% between 2015 and 2030, not to mention the thorny issue of waste colonialism, whereby wealthier nations ship their fashion and clothing waste to developing countries where they create toxic mounds of garbage.
The fashion industry is desperately in need of future-proof solutions that are climate-friendly, low to no waste, land-light and That leaves the textile industry in a spot of bother, and in dire need of future-friendly solutions. Fortunately, a host of new startups are doing just that, coming up with more sustainable alternatives that don’t harm the environment and offer the same functionality we expect from conventional fabrics and materials.
Newlight Technologies
Headquarters: Huntington Beach, California, US Founders: Mark Herrema and Kenton Kimmel Total funding: $231.6M
Courtesy: Newlight Technologies
Founded in 2003, Newlight Technologies is solving several problems at once. It makes its AirCarbon bioplastic through fermentation, feeding marine microorganisms on carbon dioxide as well as methane from dairy farms to produce a material that can melt the same way plastic can. It’s working towards a circular process that uses anaerobic digestors to turn AirCarbon into biogas, which can in turn produce AirCarbon and power. The firm has previously rolled out cutlery, handbags, wallets and sunglasses under its brands, and has collaborated with Nike.
It’s not just textiles – Newlight Technologies recently showcased its AirCarbon straws in a sustainable cocktail at the Anaheim Marriott.
Natural Fiber Welding
Headquarters: Peoria, Illinois, US Founders: Luke Haverhals Total funding: $136.5M
Courtesy: Natural Fiber Welding
Natural Fiber Welding makes plastic-free biomaterials, including leathers, footwear outsoles, foam, and fabrics. The latter range is called Clarus, made using virgin and recycled natural fibres. The technology behind these textiles strengthens natural yarns, using closed-loop chemistry to create knits, wind-resistant wovens, and durable cotton canvas with high-value performance features. Its technology is licenced to five international manufacturers, and it has plans to expand to 22 other countries across the globe.
An Earthshot Prize 2024 finalist, the company works with 40 brands, including Stella McCartney, Patagonia, BMW, and Ralph Lauren – the latter debuted its RLX Clarus polo shirt at the 2022 Australian Tennis Open.
Galy
Headquarters: Boston, Massachusetts, US Founders: Luciano Bueno and Paula Elbl Total funding: $65M
Courtesy: Galy
Backed by the likes of H&M, Inditex, Bill Gates and Sam Altman, Galy is sidestepping the farmed cotton industry altogether, instead using cellular agriculture to grow an alternative in labs. In a process that requires 99% less water and 97% less land, it feeds cotton cells on sugars in bioreactors, selectively regulating genes once the cells multiply to the required volumes, and transforming them into cotton fibre. It has secured millions of dollars in proof-of-concept agreements with industry leaders for its lab-grown cotton and is now scaling up towards a pre-industrial scale.
Galy’s Literally Cotton was recognised on Time’s 200 Best Inventions list for 2024. “With all due respect to agriculture, we believe we can produce the same thing in a lab facility, better,” co-founder and CEO Luciano Bueno told the magazine.
Evrnu
Headquarters: Mercer Island, Washington, US Founders: Stacey Flynn and Christo Stanev Total funding: $31M
Courtesy: Evrnu
Until April, Evrnu was a textile recycling company. But earlier this year, it made its D2C play with a fashion brand called Nucycle. The firm collects and shreds cotton textile waste, processes it into liquid pulp, extrudes that into lyocell fibre, which is knitted into fabrics and garments. The material is said to be inherently soft, absorbent, and stronger than virgin cotton and polyester. Evrnu launched its first product in March, a fully recyclable 360 Hoodie made from Nucycle.
The startup is part of the World Economic Forum’s Technology Pioneer community. And the tech has impressed many industry giants, with Evrnu inking deals with Adidas, Levi’s, Stella McCartney, Target, Pangaia and Zara, among others.
Circulose
Headquarters: Sundsvall, Sweden Founders/parent company: Christofer Lindgren, Gunnar Henriksson, Johan Sundblad, Malcolm Norlin and Mikael Lindström (now owned by Altor) Total funding: $10.6M
Courtesy: Circulose
Another recycled cotton waste innovator, Circulose (formerly Renewcell) recovers cellulose from worn-out clothes and production scraps to make a “dissolving pulp” that can form the base of viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate, and other regenerated fibres. These can be spun into yarns, woven or knitted into fabrics, and cut and sewn into virgin-quality textile products, replacing materials like cotton and wood pulp. The company works with brands like Calvin Klein, & Other Stories, and more.
Circulose’s pulp was part of Knits, Denim and other fashion items in Ganni’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection at Paris Fashion Week.
TômTex
Headquarters: Brooklyn, New York, US Founders: Uyen Tran & Ross McBee Total funding: $4.15M
Courtesy: TômTex
TômTex is a flexible biomaterial made from chitosan, a biopolymer found in the exoskeletons of shellfish and crustaceans, coffee, and mushrooms. The startup sources the chitosan from waste seafood shells and mushrooms, which is processed into a biodegradable leather alternative that’s soft enough to be both hand-stitched or machine-sewn.
The startup’s material was also named one of Time’s 200 Best Inventions of 2024, and co-founder Ross McBee told the magazine that it will be available next year for $2.50-3.50 per sq ft, on par with mid-tier conventional leather.
BioFluff
Headquarters: Paris, France Founders: Martin Steubler, Steven Usdan and Roni Gamzon Total funding: $3M
Courtesy: BioFluff
BioFluff is targeting the luxury end of the market with plant-based alternatives to animal- and plastic-derived fur, shearling and plush, which it aims to bring to market under its Savian brand. It uses 100% renewable plant fibres and agricultural waste to transform nettle, hemp and flex into these fully biodegradable alt-materials, reducing emissions by 40-90%.
Headquarters: Toronto, Canada Founders: Myra Arshad and Avneet Ghotra Total funding: $2.3M
Courtesy: Alt Tex/Green Queen
Canadian startup Alt Tex is making a food-waste-based alternative to polyester, the plastic textile present in 60% of all clothing. It uses microbial fermentation to turn food waste, another large landfill contributor, into biodegradable polymers, which are mixed with additives to create fibres to sell to fashion brands. A single shirt made from the fabric can divert 1kg of food waste from landfills and 9kg of carbon from the atmosphere. Alt Tex’s first fabric prototype is said to be 70% stronger than cotton.
Its founders Myra Arshad and Avneet Ghotra were named on Forbes’s 30 Under 30 North America list for 2025 in the manufacturing and industry category.
Ponda
Headquarters: Bristol, UK Founders: Julian Ellis-Brown, Neloufar Taheri, Antonia Jara and Finlay Duncan Total funding: Undisclosed
Courtesy: Ponda
Formerly known as SaltyCo, Ponda develops novel textiles from regenerative fibres. Its flagship product, BioPuff, is a bulrush-based alternative to goose down and polyester fibres that provides warm, lightweight and water-resistant insulation. The startup engages in paludiculture, which involves farming on wetlands like rewetted peatlands, which are some of the most healing environments on Earth and hold over 40% of all soil carbon.
BioPuff was used in the padding of Stella McCartney’s luxury vegan handbag line Falabella, as part of the designer’s Autumn 2024 collection.
Consumer concern about the climate crisis has escalated since 2022, but half of the world finds sustainable living expensive.
With climate scientists sounding the alarm about the unrealistic path to 1.5°C – just as the Arctic burns, the Amazon is cleared, and America reels from its deadliest hurricane in two decades – how governments reshape their policies is key to the planet’s future.
As is consumer behaviour. The climate crisis affects everyone, everywhere in the world, and taking individual action is critical. A new survey of nearly 19,000 people by consultancy firm Bain & Company found that 76% of the world’s population says practising an eco-friendly lifestyle is impactful and important.
The poll – which comes as the world deals with two geopolitical wars, the rise of artificial intelligence, and continued inflation – revealed that 61% of people in the 10 countries covered are more concerned about this climate crisis now than they were two years ago, often sparked by personal experience of extreme weather events, which have become more frequent as the world heats up and our atmosphere becomes more carbon-heavy.
These consumer concerns have also pushed companies and their leaders to bring about change. “For sustainability, 2023 was the year boundless excitement gave way to pragmatic realism. As the challenge of meeting bold commitments became clear, many companies started to rethink what is achievable and on what timeline,” said Jean-Charles van den Branden, leader of Bain’s Global Sustainability practice.
Regional disparities in climate perceptions
Courtesy: Bain & Company
The pollsters asked the opinions of people in the US, the UK, the Netherlands, Germany, France, Italy, Japan, China, Brazil, and Indonesia. The latter two exhibited the highest rise in concerns over climate change from 2022, at 78% and 73%, respectively.
Meanwhile, the Netherlands (50%), the US, and Germany (both 51%) had the lowest numbers – but the fact that this was a still 50% rise in concern from two years ago speaks volumes of how the climate emergency has affected the world.
These trends continue in the number of respondents who feel taking individual action is important, with 90% of Brazilians and Indonesians agreeing with this statement, versus 65% of Dutch and 67% of German consumers. The country with the lowest percentage of people who believe their actions have an impact, though, is Japan (64%).
And just as these beliefs change based on where a person lives, their approach to a sustainable lifestyle also differs based on “factors ranging from cultural norms to political leanings”, the report found.
Courtesy: Bain & Company
It also revealed that consumers prefer different eco attributes depending on the product, but ‘natural’ is always the top purchase motivator, key for over a third of respondents for fresh and packaged foods, beauty and personal care, and household cleaning supplies.
However, the sustainability transition has been hampered by the view that sustainable living is always more expensive, with 49% of respondents saying so (versus 27% who feel it would be cheaper to be more eco-friendly). The only country where more people say sustainability costs lower (52%) than those who say it’s costlier (25%) is Indonesia, a developing economy.
In the US, though, consumers are willing to pay up to 10% more for products that have a lower climate footprint, and up to 15% higher for those that have health benefits.
People are eating less meat for climate and health reasons
Courtesy: Bain & Company
The idea that living in a planet-friendly manner is heavy on the wallet isn’t always true, the report’s authors argue. “Some consumers, while trying to save money, are adopting habits that also happen to be more sustainable, such as driving less, buying secondhand clothing, and, in some cases, actively cutting down on meat and dairy,” it stated.
The most popular actions adopted by people for environmental reasons are recycling (68%), limiting purchases of disposables (67%), and composting food waste (66%). When it comes to lowering at-home energy use, minimising air travel, or purchasing secondhand clothes, more people do this for affordability than for climate concerns.
Consumers are also walking, cycling or taking public transport as an alternative to driving, whil actively eating less meat and/or dairy, but they’re swayed by several factors here. For example, while 29% of people are cutting down on animal proteins for climate-related worries, 28% are doing so for health, and 26% for personal preference. The remaining 15% are shifting their dietary habits out of affordability concerns.
Courtesy: Bain & Company
The main drivers of these actions are personal experiences of extreme weather (40%), media coverage (35%), product availability and access (33%), and brand campaigns (28%).
But companies need to take better action, given that many are behind schedule to reach their 2025 recycling targets. The environmental impact of packaging is important to half of all consumers, particularly in Indonesia (85%), Brazil (76%), and China (74%). Americans are on the other end of the spectrum, with only 41% caring about this metric, and 22% not finding it important.
The survey showed that consumers are most concerned with the end of life of packaging, or what happens after using ht product. Nearly half of consumers (48%) look for recyclable packaging attributes when shopping, while 40% do so for reusability and 38% for recycled packaging.
What can brands do to solve sustainability and consumer concerns?
Courtesy: Bain & Company
Bain’s analysis of data from the Carbon Disclosure Project revealed that more companies are falling behind their decarbonisation targets. Today, over half (51%) of businesses are not on track to deliver their goals for scope 3 emissions (which entail the entire supply chain of a company and account for up to 95% of corporate emissions), compared to 37% in 2022.
And in a damning finding, only 29% of global consumers trust large companies, compared to 48% who have faith in small, independent businesses. So what can brands do to clean up the air and consumer concerns?
Companies must invest in developing products that meet untapped sustainability needs, coupled with the right messaging to help consumers in their quest for sustainability – this means figuring out where people are willing to pay more and where businesses can make some profits, and taking this trial-and-error approach to innovation and marketing.
Corporations also need to update their operating models, since supply chain teams are often detached from marketing and an understanding of what customers value. The costs and benefits can be misaligned, making the company miss opportunities to advance sustainability and gain value among consumers.
Courtesy: Bain & Company
Brands should be ready to acknowledge the fragmented market and build a more agile supply chain. Marketing becomes more complex as different consumer segments require different messaging now. “For example, a plant-based spread could be promoted with one set of messages to a consumer group whose primary concern is animal welfare and with completely different messages to those who are focused on healthy food,” the report said.
Fixing the packaging is critical as well, both in terms of sustainability and communicating its value. “The best companies will avoid making packaging out of multiple different materials so that it needs to be disassembled to recycle,” Bain stated. Working with retailers, brands can help clear consumer confusion about packaging sustainability and recyclability.
And finally, fostering the right partnerships can help companies accelerate the sustainability transition. “With so many consumers telling us that accessibility is one of the key barriers preventing them from purchasing sustainable products, companies can collaborate to ensure prominent product placement and encourage new behaviour in areas like refills or packaging returns,” the report read.
The take-back schemes run by UK supermarkets to recycle soft plastics have misled consumers, with 70% of this waste being burned instead, an investigation has found.
Tesco and Sainsbury’s – the UK’s two largest retailers – are being accused of misleading shoppers over their plastic recycling schemes, after campaigners inserted trackers inside soft plastic packages.
Between July 2023 and 2024, members of campaign group Everyday Plastic placed Apple AirTags in 40 bundles of soft plastic collected at Tesco and Sainsbury’s stores across England, as part of the retailers’ take-back schemes.
But instead of recycling these soft plastics – as they had pledged – 70% of them were actually burned. The rest ended up at recycling facilities that downcycle them into lower-value products (like bin bags, carrier bags, and composite timber boards), and 80% of these were sent to recycling facilities abroad, mainly to Turkey.
This takes advantage of consumers’ goodwill and misleads them about the environmental impact of soft plastics, the campaigners argue. “Our trackers reveal the hard truth about soft plastic recycling schemes at supermarkets – soft plastic packaging is not getting recycled,” said Alison Colclough, research director at Everyday Plastic, which carried out the investigation with the Environmental Investigation Agency.
“Supermarkets, waste companies and the government acknowledge that there are significant challenges to recycling soft plastic,” she added. “Our tracker investigation supports these claims and shows that soft plastic is extremely difficult, if not impossible, to recycle at scale.”
Courtesy: Everyday Plastic
Why recycling soft plastics is a problem for supermarkets
To tackle their growing plastic footprint, major supermarkets in the UK began their take-back schemes in 2021, encouraging consumers to collect their plastic packaging waste and bring it to the store for recycling. As of October 2022, this initiative has been rolled out in over 6,000 locations, including those of Tesco and Sainsbury’s, which command 43% of the country’s grocery share.
Plastic, which is petroleum-based, and terrible for the planet and human health. It takes anywhere between 20 and 500 years to decompose, and producing it generates more emissions than the entire aviation sector. But we’re on course to manufacture three times as much plastic by 2060 – and emissions from this sector are set to take up a fifth of the global carbon budget by mid-century.
But soft plastics – from the shrink wrap on cucumbers, to salad bags and packaging for Quorn – are the most concerning form of plastic packaging, with 215 billion new items placed in the UK market in 2023 alone. At those rates, the country’s recycling capacity would need to increase by 350%.
Tesco has called soft plastic an “important part of our packaging portfolio” that helps preserve food and prevent waste (although that claim is shaky at best). Sainsbury’s has echoed this point by noting that it “helps us deliver fresh, undamaged produce”, but it acknowledged that it “can have a negative impact on our planet”.
The problem, though, is that soft plastics are notoriously hard to recycle, especially since the end recycling market in the UK is limited. In 2022, only 7% of soft plastics placed on the domestic market were collected for kerbside recycling, which is unsurprising given that 88% of local authorities don’t collect soft plastics at the kerbside for recycling.
Even if soft plastics are theoretically recyclable, the UK’s infrastructure only has the ability to recycle a quarter of the soft plastic placed on the market. This is why it sends most of its plastic waste offshore, making it the fourth-largest exporter of these materials. Last year, it exported 568,000 tonnes of plastic waste, a 10% increase annually, a quarter of which went to Turkey, and a fifth to the Netherlands.
“The take-back schemes are being presented as a solution, which is diverting attention from the main issue that can’t be overlooked: far too much unnecessary plastic packaging is being produced,” said Colclough.
Tesco and Sainsbury’s respond to investigation
Courtesy: Everyday Plastic
Of the 40 AirTags, 22 ended up at front-of-store collection points at Sainsbury’s stores – but only 11 reached a final destination. Six of these packaging bundles were turned into fuel pellets to be used in energy production for furnaces and kilns, while five were incinerated for energy recovery. Neither of these measures is considered a form of recycling.
As for the ones that didn’t get to a final destination, they were scattered around waste transfer stores, a Sainsbury’s distribution centre, reprocessing facilities, and a motorway in Europe – and two never left the supermarket.
At Tesco, only six of the 18 trackers ended up at a final destination, with one bundle being converted to fuel pellets, and five sent to facilities that repurpose plastic waste into lower-value products. This practice is called downcycling, and the repurposed items are themselves difficult to recycle or dispose of at end of life.
“We believe that none of our tracked bundles of soft plastic whose final destination is known, ended up at a closed-loop recycling facility,” the report suggests. The remaining dozen packages were last seen at repurposing facilities, a Tesco distribution centre, and waste handling plants.
Courtesy: Everyday Plastic
“We have a clear plan to remove packaging wherever possible, and reducing, reusing and recycling it where we can’t,” a Tesco spokesperson said. “Given the challenges of collecting soft plastics at kerbside, we have soft plastics collection points in our stores for customers.
“Where it is not possible to recycle the collected plastic, we put it to alternative uses to avoid these materials going to landfill, for example using it for energy recovery. We know there is a lot more progress to be made, and the infrastructure to recycle soft plastics at scale in the UK and the EU still has a way to go. We are committed to working constructively with the industry and government to find new solutions for all materials, including those previously considered waste.”
A representative for Sainsbury’s added: “We’re always seeking ways to positively manage the end-of-life of our packaging. Our ‘return to store recycling scheme’ provides the opportunity to recycle more soft plastic until kerbside collection becomes available in 2026-27.
“We collect a small volume of flexible plastic overall in-store. The majority is in good condition and so is recycled. However, when materials are soiled or damaged, then they may need to be converted for energy, which is managed by our supplier.”
Supermarkets and government urged to back global plastics treaty
Courtesy: Everyday Plastic
The investigation has thrown fresh doubt over supermarkets’ recycling schemes. A 2021 survey revealed that almost all Brits felt recycling soft plastics would be good (96%) and worthwhile (91%). And in the last year, awareness about take-back schemes has grown, from 31% of citizens in 2023 to 48% now.
“There is a huge gap between what consumers are told about recycling and the shocking reality,” said Katie-Scarlett Wetherall, a lawyer at ClientEarth, which has published a legal briefing warning that soft plastic recycling claims are misleading. “Consumer protection authorities such as the UK Competition and Markets Authority have grounds to legally challenge these claims. Supermarkets, fast-moving consumer goods companies and the packaging sector must be alive to this greenwashing risk.”
Both Sainsbury’s and Tesco are part of the UK Plastics Pact, whose members are responsible for 75% of consumer plastic packaging, and have pledged to recycle or compost 70% of packaging while eliminating single-use plastics by 2025. This is an effort coordinated by UK waste reduction charity WRAP.
Helen Bird, WRAP’s head of materials systems transformation, defended the take-back schemes, noting their importance before kerbside soft plastic recycling comes into force in 2028: “While not perfect, these have acted as an important catalyst for crucial investment in UK recycling infrastructure and end markets and instilled new habits in people to separate bags and wrapping for recycling.”
Next month, global leaders will convene in the final negotiations for the UN’s plastics treaty, which is calling for an end to plastic pollution and a 40% reduction in production by 2040. Everyday Plastic is now asking Sainsbury’s and Tesco to publicly push the UK to support the treaty.
It’s also urging the government to set legally binding targets to cut single-use plastic, remove plastic packaging from unprocessed fruits and vegetables by 2030, ban plastic waste exports by 2027, suspend new incineration activity, prevent chemical recycling as a plastic treatment option, and provide financial incentives to adopt reuse systems.
Meanwhile, supermarkets must significantly reduce their single-use, non-essential packaging, stop exporting collected soft plastic waste, and be transparent with consumers about the challenges of recycling these materials.
Hong Kong-based charity Redress has announced the results of the 2024 Redress Design Award, with the top prize winner getting a chance to work with Tommy Hilfiger.
Redress, the Asia-focused charity tackling the fashion industry’s environmental impact, has named Hong Kong designer Tiger Chung as the winner of the 2024 Redress Design Award’s top prize.
Described as the world’s leading sustainable fashion design competition, the Redress Design Award aims to empower designers about circular fashion to reduce the industry’s climate impact and waste crisis. The 14th edition was held at the ongoing Centrestage Hong Kong trade show last week.
As the winner of the top prize, Chung will now get to work with Tommy Hilfiger on a sustainable design project for retail, and spend time under the wing of the fashion giant’s sustainability team to deepen his skills and understanding of eco-friendly production and marketing. He will further receive mentorship sessions from Tommy Hilfiger, which sponsored the top prize this year.
Chung, whose collection The Wanderer exploited waste streams like car seat covers and discarded sofas, called it a “huge opportunity to showcase circular solutions on a global stage”.
“Fashion is rightly criticised for its negative environmental impact, which is a huge concern for designers like myself,” he said. “But we intend to change this – and make fashion better for the planet.”
Tommy Hilfiger champions circularity at Redress Design Award
Courtesy: Redress
The fashion industry is responsible for a tenth of global emissions – five times higher than the aviation sector. It is also set to take up a quarter of the world’s carbon budget by 2050. This makes it one of the most polluting industries, thanks in large part to the waste crisis it’s currently undergoing.
The equivalent of one rubbish truck of textiles is landfilled or burned every second. And this is showing no signs of stopping: between 2015 and 2030, textile waste has been estimated to rise by 60%. On a wider note, more than 80% of a product’s climate footprint comes during the design stage.
This is why Redress is pushing designers to champion the circular economy, which involves regenerating nature, reusing and upcycling materials, and taking into account a product’s full life cycle.
The 10 finalists of the 2024 Redress Design Award – which partners with 170+ academic institutions – were from all over the world, selected from applications across 55 global regions. Creations on its runway were made using circular design techniques and textile waste – from denim end-of-rolls to a shredded military parachute.
They participated in a host of circular educational challenges. In Vietnam, a low-waste design challenge at Tal Apparel’s factory explored commercial solutions for pre-consumer garment waste. Similarly, a Packaging with Purpose challenge in partnership with Delta Global looked at how eco packaging can connect more consumers to a brand’s value.
“Circular design is foundational to a sustainable future for fashion,” said Jessica Wei, senior sustainability director at Tommy Hilfiger Asia-Pacific, and a judge of the 2024 awards. By 2030, all of the fashion label’s products will contribute to the circular economy through design, use and end of life. That’s also why Tommy Hilfiger partnered with Redress to help educate designers about circular fashion design.
Apart from its support, Chung will also benefit from an HK$50,000 ($6,400) development fund, a lockstitch machine and overlock sewing machine from Japanese company Juki, and a one-year subscription to Bloomsbury Fashion Central. He also won the Hong Kong Best Prize, which recognised the highest-scoring designer from the city, which carried an HK15,000 ($1,900) prize money.
Tian Ruyin, a designer from China, was the runner-up, earning a mentorship with sustainable fashion designer Orsola de Castro, an HK15,000 ($1,900) grant, and a lockstitch machine. And British designer Silvia Acien Parrilla won the People’s Choice award, receiving a Juki sewing machine after impressing global voters with her designs.
All the finalists join the Redress Alumni Network, a community of over 300 previous finalists and semi-finalists from more than 50 regions (over half of them are based in Asia). These designers have made strides globally, dressing celebrities like Taylor Swift and Heidi Klum, appearing at the Olympics, and visiting the Pacific to tackle microplastic pollution with Uniqlo.
“This competition win is a broader victory for the industry, which needs urgent injections of creativity from designers, and more engagement from consumers if we’re to tackle the growing waste crisis raging globally and particularly in Asia,” said Redress founder Christina Dean. “Urgent change and collaboration at the design stage is needed.”
Dean founded Redress in 2007 to inspire positive environmental change and promote sustainability in fashion by reducing textile waste, pollution, and water and energy consumption. A decade later, she established an offshoot fashion brand called The R Collective, which rescues textile waste from luxury brands, mills and manufacturers and upcycles these materials into elegant clothing pieces.
Courtesy: Redress
Redress will again collaborate with Tommy Hilfiger to present a celebratory runway of the awards’ emerging Chinese designers at Shanghai Fashion Week (October 10-18).
Speaking to Green Queen in February, Dean recalled her biggest learnings since starting Redress 17 years ago. “I’ve come to respect the fashion industry, its suppliers, its spinners, weavers, farmers, etc., very deeply, and I see such wonderful and enormous talent, generosity, determination, and humanity and love throughout the business,” she said.
“I’ve met the most incredible activists working in the fastest and cheapest of the big fast-fashion brands; I’ve met recyclers with bigger brains than their machines; and I’ve met CEOs with more conviction for change than prolific activists,” Dean added.
“So I’ve come to realise that the humans behind the machines, spreadsheets, steering wheels, and boardrooms of fashion are pretty amazing people, who bring optimism to the challenges at hand. We are all only human, against some inhumanly complex issues.”
L’Oréal has entered a multi-year partnership with biotech startup Debut to develop fermentation-based ingredients for its products, as part of its sustainability goals.
The world’s largest cosmetics brand is turning to fermentation to meet its climate targets.
French beauty giant L’Oréal has expanded its partnership with Californian biotech leader Debut to develop over a dozen bio-identical ingredients via advanced fermentation.
The goal is to replace the conventionally sourced ingredients currently used in L’Oréal’s global beauty and personal care brands across the skin, hair, colour cosmetics, and fragrance verticals, such as Maybelline, Garnier, Kiehl’s and NYX Cosmetics.
The collaboration is the first joint announcement by the two companies since L’Oréal led Debut’s $40M Series B investment round through its VC arm Bold a year ago.
Debut will leverage fermentation to replace L’Oréal ingredients
Courtesy: Billy Economou/BE Studios, Ariba Alvi/Debut
Debut will create new bio-based ingredients using proprietary advanced biomanufacturing processes that combine fermentation and cell-free technology to replace conventional production methods.
“We are partnering with L’Oréal to create the exact same ingredients that are used in amazing products worldwide, but the same way pretty much that you brew beer,” Debut founder and CEO Joshua Britton told WWD.
“Instead of those cells floating around a beer tank that kick out alcohol or wine or beer or sake, we go in and use our biologists to say: ‘No, now you’re going to create this ingredient,’ and that ingredient is one of many that L’Oréal uses in their formulations. But instead of it being made through petroleum or cultivation, now it could be made through this biological approach, which is far more sustainable,” he added.
Debut claims its biotech processes can unlock “a new generation of cosmetic bioactive ingredients” and enable not just enhanced sustainability credentials, but also supply chain transparency, safety, purity, consistency, quality, and science-backed data.
It will take about two to three years before these novel ingredients will begin replacing incumbent ones in L’Oréal products. Guive Balooch, global managing director of Augmented Beauty and Open Innovation at L’Oréal Groupe, noted that the adoption of breakthrough technology would allow the company “to drive the creation of more sustainable and effective products that meet the demands of our consumers and fulfils our duty of care for the planet”.
Partnership to aid L’Oréal’s climate goals
Courtesy: L’Oréal
The global beauty and personal care industry is currently valued at $646B, but it has a major impact on climate change, thanks to the widespread use of plastic, packaging waste, and deforestation-linked sourcing. Raw materials alone account for about 30-50% of the sector’s emissions, according to the Carbon Trust.
As the largest company in the space, with over $44B in sales last year, L’Oréal has a responsibility to lead the sector’s decarbonisation. The company has committed to cutting scope 1 and 2 emissions in half and reducing emissions from consumer use by 25% by 2030 (from a 2016 baseline).
And despite production volume increasing by 12% since 2019, it has reduced emissions from its operated sites by 74%, thanks to its commitment to using 100% renewable energy by next year. It is also the only company to have received an A score for eight consecutive years on all three rankings by the Carbon Disclosure Project: fighting climate change, sustainable water management, and forest preservation.
Additionally, by 2030, the cosmetics behemoth aims to have fully eco-designed formulas that respect aquatic ecosystems, with 95% of its ingredients derived from renewable plant-based resources or abundant minerals.
“We’ve now started this journey of working with the best people outside through our open innovation teams to be able to find a way to reach our commitments,” Balooch told WWD. “We have this knowledge of beauty, science, skin, hair and makeup, and we want to work with partners in the biotech industry like Debut that are allowing us to scale it. They have the innovation and they have the scale, and they do it in a way where they’re using new processes that are cell-free and innovative.”
L’Oréal’s partnership with Debut will appeal to the 46% of consumers buying more sustainably to reduce their environmental impact, as evidenced by a 20,000-person global survey earlier this year. It found that 80% are happy to pay more for them for more climate-friendly products, with an average price premium of 9.7%.
One place where the company does leave a little to be desired is animal testing. While L’Oréal gave up the practice three decades ago, it does allow third parties to do so in markets where animal testing is required by law. But this is critical to many consumers, with one survey suggesting that cruelty-free is the second-most important purchase driver for beauty products.
US startup Uncaged Innovations has raised $5.6M in seed funding to commercialise its grain-based, plastic-free leather alternative.
Uncaged Innovations, which makes vegan leather from grains, has closed a $5.6M seed investment round led by Green Circle Foodtech Ventures and Fall Line Capital, with Ponderosa Ventures, Golden Seeds, and InMotion Ventures (the VC arm of Jaguar Land Rover) also participating. The latter was also part of the biomaterials startup’s $2M pre-seed round in June 2023.
While the previous capital injection was earmarked for scaling up operations to produce millions of metres of its alt-leather annually, the latest round will help it build out its manufacturing team and bolster its market launch plans.
“What Uncaged Innovations has achieved with its grain-based technology is a significant breakthrough in an industry that has long awaited a breakout innovation,” said Green Circle Capital founder and managing director Stu Strumwasser.
“The opportunity is enormous, and we believe that their ability to provide a high-quality material that is scaled and price competitive is a game-changer,” he added.
Using plant collagen to make truly sustainable leather
Courtesy: Uncaged Innovations
Founded in 2020 by CEO Stephanie Downs and Xiaokun Wang, the New York-based startup claims to be the first to have developed leather made from grains.
It does so by deploying its tech platform, BioFuze, with roll-to-roll manufacturing techniques. Uncaged Innovations blends plant-based collagen with other biomaterials to build a fibral network that replicates the texture and performance of animal-derived leather.
“When we started our research, we analysed what makes leather, and we learned that the real magic of it is that collagen can behave in specific ways that give the leather the structure it has,” Downs told Business Insider. “So we decided to look at the plant kingdom – and use plant proteins from grains.”
Conventional leather is derived from animal hide, and has previously been thought of as a byproduct of the meat and dairy industries. Supporters of the industry tout its biodegradability and longevity as supposed sustainability credentials, but critics argue it is more a co-product than a byproduct – and in many cases, it’s the primary product.
Producing leather is an energy– and water-intensive process linked to deforestation and biodiversity loss. Aside from the animal exploitation aspect, it also has a much higher carbon footprint, at 110kg of CO2e per square metre, compared to synthetic and plant-based alternatives.
But synthetic leather has its own problems. It contains plastic a notoriously planet-harming material that takes between 20 to 500 years to break down and decompose. Plastic production is responsible for 3.4% of global emissions, and its contribution is set to double by 2060. Plastic-based leather can also shed toxic microplastics that can enter waterways – thus destroying aquatic life, and our food system.
Uncaged Innovations’ version is plastic-free and fully biodegradable (thanks to a corn-based coating). And an independent life-cycle assessment has shown that its grain-derived leather emits 95% fewer greenhouse gases, requires 93% less water, and consumes 72% less energy than conventional leather.
Uncaged Innovations working with luxury brands
Courtesy: Uncaged Innovations
The company makes leather alternatives primarily for the fashion, consumer goods and automotive industries. “We’re an ingredient in their designs, and we work with a lot of the largest fashion houses and many well-known brands,” Downs told Business Insider.
She revealed that Uncaged Innovations is currently developing prototypes for Jaguar Land Rover and is in talks with several luxury brands, with plans to reveal its first collaborations “in a couple of months”.
The grain leather’s flexibility will attract manufacturers: it can be formulated to different durability levels to suit a wide range of applications, and can be dyed during production, forgoing the need for tanning, which generates lots of hazardous chemicals that are a detriment to human health.
“While others have attempted to replicate leather using various inputs, we felt the use of structural proteins to mimic collagen was transformational,” said Fall Line Capital founder and managing director Eric O’Brien.
“We understand the margin pressure farmers face growing commodity grains, and we are constantly on the lookout for ways to help them capture more value from their production,” he added. “By diversifying and applying greater value to agricultural streams, we can strengthen our farm systems and provide consumers with more sustainable goods.”
And consumers do want more sustainable goods. A 20,000-person global survey this year revealed that 85% of people are experiencing disruptive climate change effects, and 46% are buying more sustainable products to reduce their personal impact. In fact, 80% are happy to pay more for them for greener products, with an average price premium of 9.7%.
“The tide has turned aggressively toward materials that are sustainable, and we plan to capture that momentum,” said Downs. “This funding round brings Uncaged another step closer to achieving our ultimate goal of disrupting every industry that relies on leather.”
Sometimes, all you want to do is boil some noodles and call it a day – here are nine of the best instant ramen products that just happen to be vegan.
Like Maisie Peters, I could have noodles for breakfast. In fact, I’ve done so many a time. In fact, growing up where I did, a bowl of Maggi was the cure of all troubles, and at all times. Breakfast? Lunch? Afternoon grub? Dinner? Midnight snack? Any time and every time.
Instant noodles represent a comfort factor like no other, and as I’ve discovered more and more brands, I’ve also realised just how many brands make variants that are automatically vegan.
Whether you’re after something soothing, spicy, soupy, or a combination of all of the above, we’ve gathered the best-tasting instant ramen suitable for people on a plant-based diet.
Fair warning: this is not an exhaustive list, and it doesn’t include cup noodles. And it’s always important with ‘accidentally vegan’ products to check the ingredient lists – these can vary in different countries, which means the noodles in this list may not be vegan in certain countries.
With that out of the way, here are nine of the absolute best instant ramen products that happen to be vegan.
Indomie Mi Goreng
Courtesy: Indomie
Indomie is an Indonesian staple. You’ll find vendors on city streets literally selling these instant noodles as a dish – and who can blame them? These are awesome.
While there are multiple products in its lineup that are suitable for vegans, its signature Mi Goreng stands out. It comes alongside four separate packets containing seasoning powder, kecap manis (sweet soy sauce), chilli sauce and fried onion oil. These noodles aren’t meant to be eaten as a soup, so draining is recommended.
Salty, sweet, umami and with a hint of acidity and spiciness, you can have a bowl of Indomie ready to go in three minutes. If you’re concerned about E numbers, Indomie says there are no animal products in this product, making it suitable for vegans.
Nongshim Shin Ramyun
Courtesy: Nongshim
South Korea’s largest instant noodle brand, Nongshim has a huge range of instant ramen – and they’re all MSG-free, if that’s an important factor for you. Its original offering, Shin Ramyun, is also one of its best.
If you visit a grocery aisle crowded with instant ramen, it will be hard to miss Shin Ramyun, which stands out with its bright red packaging, an indicator of the broth inside. The soupy noodles can be cooked within four minutes – go for these if you’re after some heavy metal flavours, so to speak.
Salty and spicy is the name of the game here, with a flavourful broth and bits of shiitake mushrooms and spring onions providing you with a playful textural contrast.
Paldo Jjajangmen
Courtesy: Paldo
Staying in the Korean realm for a second, this one is vastly different from the other noodles appearing on this list. Paldo, another giant in the space, makes a number of vegan-friendly products, but its version of jjajangmyeon – the addictive black bean noodles – really does take the cake.
If you’re after something more earthy, rather than spicy and in your face, the Paldo Jjajangmen noodles may be what you’re looking for. The Korean-Chinese dish comes with a black bean sauce sachet, and contains soy sauce, ginger and onion extracts, spices, potatoes and cabbage.
These noodles are somewhere between soupy and dry, with the package instructions recommending you reserve a few tablespoons of water after boiling the noodles for five minutes.
Maggi 2-Minute Noodles
Courtesy: Bloomberg/Getty Images
An instant noodle classic, Maggi may mean different things to you depending on where you grew up, but for at least 1.4 billion people, it’s the name of Nestlé’s Indian-inspired instant ramen.
These noodles are famous for a “two-minute” claim, although it usually does take slightly longer to cook them through. There are many variants and flavours now, but the original is still the best. And it has always been vegetarian to cater to India’s huge meatless population, but this also happens to be vegan.
Expect a spicy, masala-packed umami bomb that will always leave you wanting more. There are no dehydrated vegetables – just noodles, seasoning, and a good time. As for soupy or dry, that’s a never-ending debate among Indians – and it’s also the beauty of it.
Nissin Demae Ramen Spicy
Courtesy: Nissin/Titus Group
The spicy name might deceive some, but Nissin’s entry in this list still more than holds its own. The brand that invented instant noodles does have other vegan products too, but Demae Ramen Spicy stands out for its flavour and versatility as both a soupy and dry dish.
These noodles are heavy on the salt and come with a packet of toasted sesame oil that balances the flavours. You can cook them in just three minutes, and while you can choose to go dry (which will have a nice concentrated flavour), most think the broth is the best part.
Samyang Buldak 2x Spicy Hot Chicken Flavour Ramen
Courtesy: Samyang/Clauii Campos/CaptureNow
Okay, so this one’s hot. Korean brand Samyang Foods’ Buldak Chicken Flavour Ramen is famed for being one of the spiciest instant noodles on the market. The 2x Spicy is rumoured to have somewhere between 8,000 to 10,000 Scoville Heat Units (SHU) – for context, that’s the upwards end of a raw jalapeño or one of the milder Serrano chillies.
These noodles contain artificial chicken seasoning and vegan chicken pieces made from seitan, with a host of other spices like garlic powder, yeast extract, red pepper powder, black pepper and curry powder. Plus, there’s no MSG.
They’re meant to be dry, with a three-minute boil time followed by a two-minute stir-fry with the seasoning packets, which include roasted sesame and lavender.
Koka Spicy Stir-Fried Noodles
Courtesy: Koka/Bianca Marie Arreola/Corelens
Another one in the dry, spicy noodle camp, Koka makes Oriental-style noodles and has an array of vegan-friendly offerings. Its signature product is the Spicy Stir-Fried Noodles, which – as instant noodles go – has a relatively shorter ingredient list.
These noodles are said to be ready in two to three minutes, and come with a dry seasoning packet and flavouring oil. They’re slightly smoky, as well as quite peppery garlic-forward, with the chilli lingering at the back of your mouth.
Itsuki Kyushu Tonkotsu Artificial Pork Ramen
Courtesy: Itsuki
Right on the other end of the spectrum lies Itsukki’s instant tonkontsu ramen. Soupy, rich flavours with deeply meaty accents, these Artificial Pork-flavoured noodles can be made in two-and-a-half minutes.
The result is a thick, creamy ramen broth, thanks to the use of soy milk powder, with soy sauce, garlic, cabbage extract and onion powder rounding out the flavour base. The noodles themselves are the right combination of chewy and soft – but not overly so.
The vegan pork-flavoured instant Itsuki Kyushu Tonkotsu Ramen is perfect for cold winter nights when all you want is a soothing bowl to tuck you in.
Bonus: Nongshim Soon Veggie Ramyun
Courtesy: Nongshim
We classed this as a bonus because the Soon Veggie Ramyun isn’t accidentally vegan – it’s intentionally so. Nongshim’s second entry in this list is a highly loved instant noodle product among plant-based eaters, and like its signature Shin Ramyun, easily distinguishable on the shelf, thanks to its light-green and white packaging.
These noodles are also the only other product here to not contain MSG, with a mildly spiced broth flavour with red pepper, shiitakes and a host of aliums. Flakes of dried choy sum and carrots provide a nice crunch, which can be rehydrated alongside the noodles within four to five minutes.
Beef is on the chopping block (so to speak) at Cannes, one of the world’s biggest film festivals, whose organisers acknowledge it is the “biggest source of greenhouse gas emissions” in the food system.
While there may be some beef over Sebastian Stan’s turn as a young Donald Trump in The Apprentice, there will be no actual beef served at the premier film festival of the EU’s largest beef supplier.
As part of a list of environmental initiatives, the ongoing Cannes Film Festival has introduced a ban on beef from its meals and cocktail receptions. The initiative is slated to help reduce its carbon footprint, but goes contrary to the French government’s own stance on meat.
This does not apply to events hosted by third parties in Cannes during the course of the festival (May 14-25), or non-accredited visitors of the event – but it’s a big move by one of the film industry’s most revered festivals, and a sign that climate change is finally creeping into the movies.
Cannes beef ban important for meat-hungry France
In its list of environmental guidelines, Cannes’ organisers explain that the festival’s caterers are respecting a “responsible” statement of requirements that include commitments to favouring local and seasonal products, short food supply chains, offering vegetarian options, tackling food waste, and limiting overall waste.
“As a complementary measure, for the meals and cocktail receptions that it organises, the Festival de Cannes is committed to increasing the number of vegetarian options and to no longer serving beef, which is the biggest source of greenhouse gas emissions,” it says.
Courtesy: Our World in Data
Beef is associated with the highest amount of greenhouse gas emissions per kg, twice more than the next most polluting food (dark chocolate). The festival has cited research that suggests beef production releases 4.5 times more greenhouse gas into the atmosphere than white meat, prompting the Cannes organisers to implement the ban as an “effective and acceptable way of reducing the carbon impact of food”.
But while the festival in southern France might be favouring beet over beef bourguignon, on the other end of the spectrum lies the national government. Last year, its agriculture minister promoted factory farming in the country so that it can produce more meat, and for cheaper. It went against the grain of the EU’s Farm to Fork policy, and was a regressive move for the climate targets of what is the bloc’s largest beef supplier.
Courtesy: Flaggenwelt/Getty Images
The industrial farming nod also came two weeks after it proposed an extensively restrictive labelling ban for plant-based meat companies, which barred them from using words like ‘sausage’ or ‘ham’ on their vegan analogues. That ban, which came into effect in March, has since been suspended by the country’s top court, which cited “serious doubts” about the move’s legality.
French people are already eating more meat than recommended, with health and climate experts urging the national dietary guidelines to suggest a decrease in meat intake for both human and planetary health. This is why Cannes’ move is significant – it attracts the world’s attention during its 12-day run on the French Riviera.
Cannes Film Festival’s sustainability initiatives
The beef ban is one of a number of other climate-friendly initiatives at this year’s film festival – Cannes bosses want to align the event with the Paris Agreement’s 1.5°C goal, which states that entities should aim for at least a 21% reduction in GHG emissions by 2030, and ideally 43%.
The Cannes Film Festival, whose emissions cuts have so far been marginal in the last five years, is guaranteeing a 21% decrease by the end of the decade (representing at least 10,300 tonnes of CO2e), and says it is working towards the 43% target too.
Courtesy: Festival de Cannes
Last year, more than 90% of its footprint came from the number of participants and their journeys into Cannes. To tackle that, the festival has been charging an “environmental contribution” of €20 per participant since 2021, all proceeds of which are donated to carbon reduction and sequestration programmes – these include marine restoration, rewilding land and reforesting initiatives (although any commitments around tree-planting and carbon offsets should be taken with a pinch of salt).
Moreover, its entire fleet of vehicles comprises electric cars, while festivalgoers are encouraged to walk when and where they can. The event has also reduced the size of its red carpets and is changing it less frequently, saving 1,400kg of material (59% of the carpet’s traditional volume). There are also no plastic water bottles, with the festival setting up water fountains across its spaces.
Courtesy: Mathilde Gardel/Festival de Cannes
It must be noted that while yes, white meats have a much smaller environmental footprint than red meats like beef, lamb or mutton, poultry still pollutes the planet much more than plant-based meat analogues, and the Cannes Film Festival would do well to reduce all meat – not just beef – and increase the presence of alternative proteins. To its credit, it has committed to “making sure that our menus and buffets offer more and more vegetarian options”.
The film festival has always implored celebrities to use its electric vehicle fleet, but many are still flying in from their private jets. In 2022, Tom Cruise landed in hot water when he arrived in a helicopter to promote Top Gun: Maverick. That said, Cruise’s 2023 film, Mission: Impossible – Dead Reckoning Part One, was one of only three Oscar-nominated movies this year to pass the Climate Reality Check (which explores the visibility of climate change on-screen in the style of the Bechdel Test).
Courtesy: Good Energy/Colby College
In fact, less than 10% of movies in the last decade have passed both criteria of the test – climate change exists, and a character knows about it – according to climate story consultancy Good Energy and Colby College’s Buck Lab for Climate and Environment, which devised the test. They found that films mentioning climate change have incidentally made more money, but they also misrepresent the reality of the crisis.
Beef bans like the ones at Cannes are a good first step towards a more climate-aware film industry. The question is whether Hollywood and other film festivals can catch up.
There’s a new luxury vegan hotel in Santorini, with biodegradable toiletries, bamboo slippers, and, of course, a plant-based breakfast. Co-owner Artemis Sorotou spills the beans on the Ethos Vegan Retreat.
While the world of ethical and sustainable hospitality is booming, some have been doing it for years. Ethos Santorini, the family-run company championing veganism and eco-friendly living, is one of them.
In 2021, it opened the Ethos Vegan Suites in Fira, the capital of one of the most popular islands in Greece. The five-room hotel was built with natural materials on Santorinian architectural principles, and provided a blueprint for cruelty-free hospitality offerings.
In the years since, it has gained a cult following (and exemplary ratings), which led to its owners – the wife-husband duo of Artemis Sorotou and Coskun Piskin – opening a second location this month. Situated in the village of Imerovigli, the Ethos Vegan Retreat builds upon the brand’s sustainability credentials, with four private villas exuding luxury and slow living with climate-friendly food and amenities.
Courtesy: Ethos Santorini
With bookings available from May to September, guests are treated to a breakfast platter that veganises local Greek dishes and international classics, as well as three-course meals traversing various cuisines, and vegan alcohol options. The sustainability aspect extends to all parts of the property, from the zero-waste slippers and biodegradable toiletries to glass water bottles and pottery containers.
Each villa has two bedrooms and bathrooms, with large indoor and outdoor spaces that encourage a tranquil environment. All the residences have a heated pool too, extending Ethos’s ethos of unwinding and rejuvenating in Santorini’s stunning landscapes.
We spoke to Sorotou about the decision to open the new property, its vegan and sustainable offerings, and her plans for the future.
This interview has been lightly edited for clarity and concision.
Green Queen: What made you decide to open a second location? Why open it only seasonally?
Artemis Sorotou: With the resounding success of Ethos Suites in Fira, we were inspired to dream bigger. After two years of operation and an outpouring of love and positive feedback from our guests, we knew we had something special. This success, coupled with the unwavering support of my family – who stepped in to invest in the land – has paved the way for our new location to become a reality.
At Ethos Retreat Imerovigli, we are excited to offer a unique and more laidback style of vacation. From cooking classes to retreats, we are committed to sharing more with our guests. However, due to weather conditions, we have decided to operate the residences seasonally to ensure we can maintain the high level of experience we strive to offer. Certain things, like keeping the pools warm and clean, just aren’t possible year-round.
Courtesy: Ethos Santorini
GQ: Who is your target customer?
AS: Our commitment to veganism and nature is at the core of our brand. We have created a safe environment for vegans, where they can relax, knowing everything is made with respect to animals and nature. However, our ultimate goal is to attract more non-vegan guests and show them that they can enjoy life and vacations without any animal abuse and with a deep respect for nature.
After three years, we can proudly say that our success extends beyond the vegan community. Many of our guests aren’t vegan but return with glowing feedback. This achievement signifies our ability to cater to a diverse clientele, making them realise that a vegan lifestyle can be delicious, luxurious, and cruelty-free.
GQ: How would you differentiate your first property from your second for customers looking to choose between the two?
AS: Both properties are distinct and luxurious in their own unique way. Ethos Suites in Fira caters to those who prefer to be in the city centre. The location allows them to be in the midst of the action, explore easily, and use public transportation conveniently. However, they can still retreat to a cosy and stylish space with all the amenities and even a private hot tub. They can find a tranquil oasis when they step into Ethos.
Ethos Retreat in Imerovigli is ideal for laidback holidays, for families, friends, couples, or even solo travellers. This is an ideal escape for those who really want to relax and disconnect, and aren’t as interested in being in the middle of the action. Of course, with our assistance, they can still experience and explore the whole island.
Courtesy: Ethos Santorini
GQ: What are some of the highlights from your breakfast and à la carte menus?
AS: We offer complimentary breakfast and a special experience dining menu (not a traditional à la carte menu), which includes Greek mezze platters, fruit platters, a three-course dinner or lunch, cooking classes, champagne service, and a sunset picnic. The three-course dinner or lunch is themed either Greek, Italian or Middle Eastern.
For breakfast, we offer a different selection daily consisting of one savoury and one sweet option, homemade jams, fresh juices, and more. A few special breakfast dishes that we offer include a veganised version of my grandma’s pancakes, called tiganitous; Kagiane, which is traditionally a dish made with scrambled eggs (I use tofu and spices), and crêpes with tahini and tart apples.i
GQ: Do you plan to serve plant-based meats too, or have a whole-food approach? And what milks will you serve?
AS: We cook mostly whole-food plant-based, with many local ingredients. I’ve also veganised many traditional Greek recipes so guests can enjoy the cuisine without the cruelty. A few other traditional Greek dishes that we serve include moussaka, pastitsio, baklava, spinach pie, mushroom gyro, bougatsa, and more.
For plant-based milk, we use soy, almond and oat milk.
Courtesy: Ethos Santorini
GQ: The retreat uses Nespresso pods – but coffee capsules are notoriously bad for the climate. How do you deal with the waste created?
AS: We chose Nespresso because it is the only company that allows us to collect the capsules and send them back with no extra cost for recycling. For coffee, we didn’t have many options. We also offer fresh herbal tea leaves produced in Greece, served in pottery made at the locally owned Earth and Water Studio.
GQ: How did you approach the design, in regards to sustainability and local heritage?
We worked with a Santorini-based architecture team called Kapsimalis Architects to blend sustainability with local design. The exterior design incorporates the island’s aesthetics – domes and straight lines, as well as colours and fabrics. Most of the furniture and tableware are made by local carpenters and pottery artists.
Courtesy: Ethos Santorini
GQ: What other sustainability initiatives have you undertaken for the new property?
AS: We don’t use any plastic toiletries – we utilise biodegradable certified vegan pods for shampoo, conditioner and shower gel made by Biorama, a family-owned company based in Crete. We also provide bamboo amenities and slippers made from hotel towel waste.
We are trying to eliminate plastic by using glass bottles of water, providing tea and sugar in pottery, no plastic or paper bags, using biodegradable toilet paper that can be thrown inside the toilet, separating waste and recycling, and doing our own compost to manage food waste.
Unfortunately, the location of Ethos in Imerovigli doesn’t provide us with a connection to the public water system (it’s not safe for human consumption), so we have to purchase glass bottles of water. However, at Ethos Suites in Fira, we have installed a water filter, so we’re able to provide guests with water in refillable glass bottles daily.
We also only use eco-friendly and vegan cleaning products throughout the property.
GQ: Where do you see the company in five years? Do you envision more locations in the future?
We hope to inspire more businesses to take a more sustainable approach to hospitality and, of course, help more people enjoy a vacation with less cruelty and less of an environmental impact.
If we say we don’t envision more locations, it would be a lie. But that’s still far away, as we are just a single family running this business. This requires considerable financial investment and constant work. I have a few more Ethos projects that I hope one day will come to fruition, but for now, they are dreams.
Veganuary will soon host the first Choose Chicken-Free Week, as part of a wider rollout of mini-campaigns to complement its annual month-long initiative.
On the back of its most successful campaign to date, Veganuary is initiating additional initiatives throughout the year to encourage people to eat fewer animal products and more plant-based food.
It’s starting with the Choose Chicken-Free Week, which will run from April 29 to May 5. For the campaign, Veganuary has already captured the attention of restaurants and brands selling egg- and chicken-free food, including TiNDLE Foods, Next Level Burger, Loma Linda and The Mushroom Hub.
“There are many simple and surprising ways to replace eggs in your favourite recipes,” said Veganuary US director Sandra Hungate. “From everyday ingredients like banana and apple sauce to culinary innovations like aquafaba – the liquid from a can of chickpeas which can be whipped into a beautiful meringue – there’s an egg-free swap out there for everything from breakfast to dessert.”
Why Veganuary is targeting the chicken industry
Courtesy: Getty Images via Canva
Coinciding with Respect for Chickens Day (May 4), the campaign will see several of these brands and foodservice operators unveil new offerings and discounts on their products. Next Level Burger and its subsidiary Veggie Grill will launch limited-edition menu options in May, and Ike’s Love & Sandwiches will promote three vegan chicken sandos.
TiNDLE, meanwhile, will be running a two-for-one offer on its products, Vitacost and FireRoad Foods will provide a 15% discount, PLNT Burger will let consumers buy one chicken sandwich and get another for half the price, Loma Linda will put its starter pack (chicken in broth and BBQ sauce) on sale for $6.49, and The Mushroom Hub will roll out a pulled jerk lion’s mane experience box.
Brands will provide recipes using either plant-based chicken or egg – such as TiNDLE’s vegan garlic parm wings, Vitacost’s deviled eggs, and Atlantic Natural Food’s chicken enchiladas – or do away with chicken-related products altogether (think teriyaki tofu burgers by Nasoya and pulled jerk lion’s mane by The Mushroom Hub).
These efforts are to promote a shift away from the chicken industry, which is associated with intensive farming, health risks, animal cruelty and environmental pollution. Though chicken is the most popular meat of all, over the last few years, bouts of avian flu have led to a chicken shortage and subsequent price hike, which has coincided with the cost-of-living crisis – and this trend is set to continue this year.
In the US, almost all chickens (99.97%) are farmed in concentrated animal feeding operations (CAFOs) – that amounts to 8.9 billion birds, versus the 3.6 million that aren’t raised in factories. Globally, as of 2021, over 73 billion chickens are slaughtered around the world each year, according to the FAO. The UN food body has actually advocated for a shift from red meats like beef to poultry, which it argues is less polluting.
While that is technically true, factory-farmed meat has a huge environmental footprint, and poultry meat is still near the top end of the highest-emitting foods, far above plant-based ingredients that are typically used to make analogues.
“For hens used for eggs, suffering is inherent in all methods of egg production – including free-range. Their lives are short, and for male chicks, very short indeed,” Veganuary explained on its website. “They are the wrong sex to lay eggs and the wrong breed for meat, so their lives are deemed to be worthless, and they are killed in the hatchery.”
Veganuary will launch more campaigns after ultra-successful 2024
Graphic by Green Queen
Veganuary has been on an upward trajectory ever since it was launched in 2014. This year, 1.8 million people officially signed up to the campaign – more than doubling the number from 2023. But separate surveys commissioned by Veganuary have shown that in reality, that figure is much, much higher: the campaign estimates that around 25 million people decided to eat exclusively vegan in January 2024.
Its official survey found that the success rate during the challenge was 45%. And of those who ended up maintaining a plant-based diet throughout the month, 30% intended to continue doing so. If you aggregate that with its official signup numbers, this year’s campaign effectively influenced 540,000 people to ditch meat, dairy, eggs and other animal products.
Even among people who didn’t see Veganuary through, 95% said they’ll reduce their consumption of animal products to some extent, with 74% saying they’ll cut this by half or more. And 73% are very or extremely likely to give veganism a go again in the future.
People found eggs the second toughest animal food to part with during Veganuary (only behind cheese, though by a significant distance). Meanwhile, animal welfare was the number one driver of Veganuary participation this year. So it makes sense for Veganuary to introduce a campaign that touches upon a much-loved food in a much-derided industry.
“Veganuary is not a short-term phenomenon that comes to an end in January. With initiatives like #ChooseChickenFree, the Veganuary movement continues to grow as both individuals and businesses embrace plant-based year-round,” said Hungate.
The popularity of Veganuary is pretty apparent if you walk into a grocery store in most countries during January. It’s hard to escape it, and there are numbers to back that up. This year, more than 2,000 new products and dishes were unveiled during Veganuary. But given we need to accelerate our efforts to change how we eat, the campaign says it wants to have a longer-term effect, and has been working with individuals to support them with dietary shifts, and companies and restaurants to increase the number of vegan options across the calendar year.
This is why Choose Chicken-Free Week is just the start. “Over the summer, Veganuary will run additional campaigns such as Choose Fish-Free Week, BBQ Month, and Choose Dairy-Free Week, aimed at educating the public about the benefits of trying vegan,” said Hungate.
Whether these campaigns will have quite the effect of the main show at the beginning of the year, no one knows. But you only need to look at this year’s participation to know that there’s a strong precedent for them to work.
Unilever has unveiled Wonder Wash, a new laundry detergent that is designed specifically to meet the growing trend of short washing cycles, and cuts emissions, water and energy use too.
A laundry detergent built for the time-strapped, sweat-laden, hybrid-working consumers that delivers energy and water savings and has a lower climate impact – that’s what Unilever is promising with Wonder Wash.
Part of its Dirt is Good brand – known as OMO, Persil, Surf Excel, Breeze, Rinso, Ala or Skip internationally – the new detergent leverages artificial intelligence and robotics to solve what the CPG giant calls a “new consumer need”.
It notes that changes in lifestyle have brought about a “seismic shift” in the laundry world – 70% of the clothing we wash now has no visible stains (but instead invisible sweat, dust and grime), while 78% of washing machine owners now choose a cycle lasting less than half an hour at least once a week. The rise of “malodour-retaining athleisurewear”, remote working patterns, and washing machines featuring cycles as short as 15 minutes, have also contributed to this shift.
So Unilever is swooping in to address this need, with the Wonder Wash line of products able to perform effectively in short, cold-water cycles. It suggests that an efficient short-cycle wash can save 30% of water and 60% of energy, and its new innovation can reduce emissions per wash by 20% compared to other Persil products.
“As part of Unilever Home Care’s Clean Future Strategy, not only is this about delivering an unmissably superior laundry experience, but reducing environmental impact by encouraging the use of shorter, energy-saving cycles,” said Eduardo Campanella, business group president of Unilever Home Care. “Using over a century in detergent development, we’ve overcome a real technical challenge to offer outstanding performance even in the shortest timeframe and the difficult washing conditions of the short cycle.”
Addressing consumer pain points through AI
Wonder Wash was developed at Unilever’s R&D centre in Port Sunlight, UK. “To make this formulation, we deconstructed and reconstructed how a laundry detergent is created,” a company spokesperson told Green Queen. Its scientists explored the types of grease and grime consumers are looking to get rid of in a quick wash.
The conglomerate says conventional liquid detergents aren’t designed for the short cycle, as they struggle to dissolve and rinse fully within the rapid timeframe, and certain ingredients need longer to activate. This can lead to sticky residues and lingering odours on clothing.
“Unilever scientists leveraged state-of-the-art robotics plus AI-accelerated digital testing to create a technology – Pro-S technology (Pro-Smell, Pro-Scent, Pro-Speed and Pro-Sense) – that makes ingredients activate instantly as soon as the short cycle begins to remove dirt and malodour,” the representative explained. “This makes this laundry detergent specifically designed for short and cold wash cycles.”
The Pro-S technology is at the heart of Wonder Wash, and is built to perform better than its competitors against what Unilever calls the four biggest pain points of short-cycle users: malodour removal, absence of residues, freshness and fabric care.
To tackle these challenges, its team developed a blend of fast-acting ingredients and enzymes (some of which have never been used in laundry before), which activate as soon as the cycle begins and fight grime and odour compounds in minutes. “Liquids was chosen as the format for Wonder Wash as it dissolves faster than powder,” the spokesperson said.
There’s also a better fragrance at the end due to the use of long-lasting scents. “The fragrance was expertly designed using a combination of compounds to create a desired olfactive character and was selected due to its performance in a short cycle,” they added.
Unilever provides update on carbon labelling
Courtesy: Unilever
The representative explains that Wonder Wash “shares many ingredients with regular detergent but contains new technology. which helps to release malodour compounds from fabrics and deliver unmatched fragrance in short, cold wash cycles”. Highlighting the depth of innovation, the product has 35 patents pending, which – if you’ll believe the company – can create a new category of laundry products in a short-cycle category that’s set to grow by 21% annually and be worth €2B in two years.
The products are available in three variants – Speed Clean, Ultra Care and Odour Defy – costing between £7-10 (depending on the size), which is on par with conventional Persil products. It’s now available in the UK, Ireland and China, with a wider international rollout expected later this year, with France likely to be the next destination.
“Understanding consumer needs is key to our laundry innovation and until now, detergents have not kept pace with changing behaviours,” said Campanella. “By harnessing people’s enthusiasm for short cycles for everyday stains, we’re opening up the potential for a new category of short cycle products within laundry.”
He added: “This breakthrough in fast-acting cleaning will come to consumers around the world under Dirt Is Good, one of Unilever’s 30 Power Brands – where we’re really focusing our investment and bringing through bigger and better innovations,” he added. “We believe it’s going to be a truly transformative product for the category.”
Adding to the sustainability claims is the product’s transparent packaging, which is made up of 35% recycled material and is 100% recyclable. This results in lower plastic weight per bottle and more efficient transportation.
Speaking of sustainability, Unilever had committed to introducing carbon labelling for all 75,000 products globally by 2026. But this hasn’t really materialised yet. Asked about progress on this front, the company representative said: “In terms of carbon labelling, it is possible that some of our brands may wish to communicate product carbon footprints in the future, and for this having accurate data is essential. We also know information must be provided in context to be meaningful to consumers.”
They added that the company is “committed to improving transparency of GHG emissions” in its value chain. “We are focusing our efforts into programmes such as the Pathfinder for Carbon Transparency, hosted by the World Business Council for Sustainable Development, which is working to standardise industry measurement and reporting of product greenhouse gas footprint data. Our collection of more accurate data will help Unilever to make more informed procurement decisions as we work towards our climate targets.
Japanese eco materials startup Spiber has secured ¥10B ($65M) in funding to accelerate mass production of its fermentation-derived Brewed Protein for use in the fashion, automotive and personal care industries.
In what is a major capital investment for the Yamagata-based startup, Spiber has closed a ¥10B ($65M) investment round to further expand production of its climate-friendly Brewed Protein materials, taking its total funding to $489M.
The financing included participation from existing shareholders, and will be used to accelerate the mass production of its fermentation-derived fibres, resins, films and other materials, and facilitate its global expansion. It will also seek to strengthen its production system and R&D platform to meet an expected growth in demand and more diversifying needs.
“We are grateful for the continued support and confidence from our investors, financial institutions, and partner companies who deeply understand the value of our technology platform, development materials, and business prospects,” said Spiber co-founder and CEO Kazuhide Sekiyama. “Despite the challenging fundraising environment for startups amidst the global economic landscape, we have been able to sustain our growth thanks to their recognition and expectation.”
Using microbial fermentation to produce future-friendly materials
Courtesy: Spiber
Fiber was founded in 2007 by Sekiyama, Hideya Mizutani and Junichi Sugahara, and uses microbial fermentation to turn produce into eco-friendly materials for fashion, automotive and personal care products.
The company leverages synthetic biology and material science to make its Brewed Protein materials, which can act as alternatives to animal-based, plant-based, as well as synthetic materials for multiple applications, including textiles, which is Spiber’s current primary focus.
To make the Brewed Proteins, the startup uses agricultural waste as feedstock, which helps advance its mission of achieving a circular economy. This can be turned into fermented polymers that can substitute cashmere, fur, wool, leather and silk, plus fossil-fuel-derived, plastic-based synthetic fabrics.
The Brewed Protein platform is completely bio-based, biodegradable, and cruelty-free. It means the company requires much fewer resources to produce its materials, and has a much lower climate footprint as a result. For example, its Brewed Protein fibres can emit up to 75% fewer GHG emissions than cashmere, while using 94% less water and taking up 86% less land. Similarly, it needs 86% less land than merino wool too, and 97% less water.
In 2018, it began constructing a commercial-scale facility in Thailand (which is now operational), and is currently building another in Iowa in the US. “We remain committed to the establishment and enhancement of the biotechnological foundations essential for realizing a circular society, as well as fulfilling our responsibility for social implementation as a frontrunner in this sector,’ said Sekiyama.
A host of brand collaborations underline Spiber’s success
Courtesy: Spiber
The company’s materials have been refined through 17 years of research, which it says are meticulously designed at the DNA level. Their potential has been recognised by investors – as can be evidenced by the sums it has raised – and industry players alike. Its engaged in joint projects with various apparel brands and has had 15 companies launch products using its materials.
These include Pangaia, The North Face, Yonetomi Seni, Goldwin, Nanamica, Cavia and Woolrich in the fashion industry, Shiseido Japan in the cosmetics space, and Toyota in the automotive world (which launched a concept vehicle using its Brewed Protein fibres last year). And as part of its circular economy initiative, the startup has rolled out a biosphere circulation project that promotes biodegradable textile waste as a new material, working alongside partners like Kering, Eileen Fisher, Johnstons of Elgin, and DyStar.
Spiber has also benefited from labelling conventions, with the International Organization for Standardization revising the definition of “protein fibre” in 2021 to include not just naturally-derived proteins, but also those produced synthetically, alongside setting the minimum protein content required for such fibres at 80%. This made it the first time synthetic structural protein materials have been recognised internationally as a new material category.
And earlier this month, the company unveiled a new denim fabric made in collaboration with fellow Japanese manufacturer Ueyama Textile, which uses 35% Brewed Protein fibres and 65% organic cotton. It represents an upgrade from its current denim made with 5% Brewed Protein and 95% cotton from denim giant Nihon Mempu.
By one tally, 401(k)-type plans are providing $46.5 billion to Big Oil right now.
By Barbara Grady
People often debate the best things individuals can do to help solve the climate crisis — ditch your combustion engine car for an electric vehicle? Stop eating meat? Go solar? Vote? Though each of these can add up to a big impact, there’s another action that people haven’t paid much attention to until recently: steering money saved in their retirement accounts away from fossil fuels.
U.S. residents are saving more than $7 trillion in 401(k) retirement plans offered by corporate employers, according to the U.S. Government Accountability Office. When similar plans offered by state and local governments and nonprofits are added, Americans have $9.9 trillion in employer-sponsored retirement savings plans.
That’s a hefty amount of financial power. Consider that transitioning the economy to net zero emissions by 2050 — as scientists say is necessary to avoid the very worst, irreversible effects of the climate crisis — will require an investment of $4 trillion a year, according to the International Energy Agency. So putting even just a portion of the money socked away in 401(k)-type retirement savings plans into climate-friendly investments could do a lot of good. Likewise, ridding your 401(k) savings plan of fossil fuels investments might also help the climate. By one tally, retirement savings plans are providing $46.5 billion to Big Oil right now.
That’s the rallying cry behind #RetireBigOil, a virtual march on Wall Street launched in February 2024 by 37 environmental organizations and sustainable investment firms. Organizers calculate that a fifth or more of the market value of oil majors is money invested from 401(k) plans and individual retirement accounts, or IRAs. As environmental activist Bill McKibben posted on X, “More than 25% of ALL money invested in U.S. oil, coal, and gas companies comes from our 401(k) retirement savings.”
If those investments were not available to companies drilling for oil and gas or mining and burning more coal, the effect might be the equivalent of removing 22 tons of carbon a year from the atmosphere, according to FossilFreeFunds, which provides a tool for searching fossil fuel holdings in mutual funds based on data from Morningstar.
Courtesy: Wikimedia Commons/CC
That 22 tons a year is more than would be removed by a collective shift to solar or EVs, march organizers say. Of course, getting there would require cooperation from everyone who participates in 401(k)s and it assumes selling those oil stocks and bonds won’t just result in someone else owning them and supporting these companies. The reality is that there are many eager buyers of oil and gas and even coal stocks, especially since their profits have surged since the Russian invasion of Ukraine caused an energy panic. This has stymied efforts at divestment.
Of course, Big Oil stock prices are extremely volatile, just like crude oil prices, and they are vulnerable to steep declines as happened during the early lockdown period of the COVID-19 pandemic. A report by Columbia University’s Center on Global Energy Policy found that oil and gas stocks, while they did well in 2022, underperformed against the S&P index between 2017 and 2022. Likewise, a McKinsey & Co. study found oil and gas returns underperformed over the past 15 years.
As people learned when many high-flying financial stocks tanked during the 2008 financial crisis, selling stocks as they are falling out of favor is a recipe for losing a lot of money. So dumping oil and gas stocks now, at the current elevated levels, may be a smart financial move for 401(k) plans.
But perhaps the bigger problem is that lots of people, probably most, do not even know whether their 401(k) is heavily invested in oil stocks.
“This issue hasn’t gotten more traction because most people, when they hear 401(k), they tune out, it’s boring or they don’t understand,” said Alex Wright-Gladstein, initiator of the #RetireBigOil march, in an interview. Her concern led her to found Sphere, an organization offering information on the fossil fuel content of many company 401(k) plans as well as a fossil-fuel-free index fund. “The focus of our campaign is to make people aware.”
For two weeks in February, more than a thousand people “marched” or posted on social media that they wanted to get oil out of their 401(k)s. Those posts and media stories received millions of impressions, she said.
A host of other organizations have also been raising red flags about retirement plans’ substantial investments in oil and gas.
Financial risks of climate change
Extreme weather disasters intensified by climate change caused 492 deaths and $93 billion in damages in 2023 in the U.S. alone. Worldwide, extreme weather disasters caused $360 billion in damages in 2022. If the mounting toll sours investors on companies whose operations contribute to climate change, investment fortunes could turn quickly.
“The vast majority of the $35 trillion in American retirement assets are invested without consideration of the financial risks posed by climate change,” writes sustainability nonprofit Ceres, my former employer, referencing not only 401(k)s but also public pension funds and IRAs. “From flood and fire risk in the real estate market to transition risk in the energy sector, the life savings of retirement participants need to minimize losses to ensure a secure future for savers.”
As You Sow, a shareholder advocacy group for environmentally and socially responsible investing, says, “When retirement plans offer fund options containing high-carbon fossil fuel bonds, employees are exposed to greater climate risk. As the climate becomes destabilized by climate-related emissions, investors, including employees, are at greater risk of financial losses from extreme weather, stranded assets, systemic risk, and spillover effects.”
New York State Comptroller Thomas DiNapoli, sole trustee of the state employees retirement fund, has gotten out ahead of this risk. He, his department, and his board developed a climate action plan for the $260 billion New York State Common Retirement Fund that gradually reallocates more of the portfolio away from fossil fuels and toward low-carbon investments, climate solutions, and climate-resilient infrastructure investments.
“Climate change is an increasingly urgent risk facing all investors, and I am determined to protect the state’s pension fund by keeping it at the forefront of efforts to mitigate risks to our investments,” DiNapoli said in a recent statement. “This reduces our fund’s exposure to fossil fuels. Consistent with my fiduciary duty to maximize investment returns for the benefit of our members and retirees, these actions should help accomplish the goals of our Climate Action Plan.”
Courtesy: Cn0ra/Getty Images
The fix
So why don’t we all just go change out our 401(k) selections to get rid of oil?
It isn’t that easy.
Fewer than 5% of 401(k)-type plans even offer climate-friendly or fossil fuel-free funds, according to Plan Sponsor Council of America data cited by Ceres. Most plans let employees choose from a handful of fund options that consist of big index funds that include some of every stock in an index, like the S & P 500 Index or the Russell 1000, and target date funds that consist of both stock and bond index funds and are structured to produce income around a specific retirement target date. Also, most participants don’t even choose a fund. They just stick with the default option in their 401(k) that the employer provides at the outset.
Many popular index funds include shares of ExxonMobil, Chevron, ConocoPhillips, Marathon Petroleum, Phillips 66, and Valero as well as oil drillers like Pioneer Natural Resources, which are all in the S & P 500. Broader index funds based on the Russell 1000 or the MSCI also include oil company shares. According to As You Sow, bond index funds are even worse climate culprits because oil, gas, and coal companies tend to pay for new extraction and pipeline projects with bonds. Looking at fossil fuel bond funds in the 401(k)-type plans offered by 43 employers, it estimates Americans are investing $46.5 billion in oil, gas, and coal expansion through their workplace retirement plans — many of them unwittingly.
For instance, the average Verizon Communications Inc. employee participating in the company 401(k) has invested $13,085 in fossil fuel stocks and bonds, according to Atmosphere.Oursphere.org, a web-based tool that lets you look up fossil fuel investment in the 401(k)s of more than 100 companies. At Procter & Gamble, employees invest an average of $16,972 in fossil fuels, according to the Atmosphere tool. Even climate-conscious companies that have reduced their operational emissions to net zero or pledged to do so also have 401(k) plans with significant fossil fuel investments. Apple, Microsoft, and Walmart — all climate leaders when it comes to operations — offer employee 401(k) plans that invest in fossil fuels.
Some experts believe part of the problem is a lack of awareness. Companies typically choose a 401(k) financial adviser to set up the employee 401(k) plan and those advisers typically turn to big asset managers such as Vanguard, Fidelity, State Street, or BlackRock. Accountability is two steps removed from the funds offered. The typical 401(k) plan list of funds offered rarely spells out what company stocks are held in each fund, which is subject to change anyway.
“It’s often just lack of information,” said Steven Rothstein, managing director of the Ceres Accelerator for Sustainable Capital Markets at Ceres, as to why retirement plan sponsors, such as employers, might not be aware of the climate-related financial risks embedded in the plans.
But in this era when hurricanes can destroy infrastructure and droughts can wipe out an entire season’s crop and cause prices to spike, many investors and regulators see climate risk as financial risk. Indeed, an entire sub-industry has grown up around investing screened for environmental, social, and governance, or ESG, risks.
The Biden administration has been concerned about whether retirement plans have fully assessed the potential impact of the climate crisis on retirement savings. In December 2022, the administration issued a rule clarifying a Department of Labor regulation that has governed employer-sponsored retirement plans for decades, the Employee Retirement Income Security Act of 1974. The change reversed a Trump administration tweaking of that rule that had restricted fund managers from considering risks from climate and other ESG factors. Biden’s rule says fund managers can consider any factor that influences the financial risk/reward of an investment. That clarification received overwhelming support, and the administration considers it so important that Biden used his first veto to overturn a Republican attempt to quash it.
“There is extensive evidence showing that environmental, social, and governance factors can have a material impact on markets, industries, and businesses,” Biden said at the time of the veto, adding that the Republican-led resolution “would force retirement managers to ignore these relevant risk factors … jeopardizing the life savings of working families and retirees.”
Courtesy: EpicStockMedia via Canva
The politics of climate-smart investing
Climate-smart investing also has become part of the culture wars. Despite hundreds of billions in damages in recent years from droughts, floods, and wildfires, huge disruptions to businesses, and higher costs in agriculture, shipping, insurance, and other industries, 14 Republican-led states, most of them dependent on oil, gas, and coal revenues, have passed laws restricting state agencies, state pension funds, and municipalities from doing business with financial firms that consider climate risk. Similar proposals in other states failed when officials determined the bans would prevent them from carrying out their fiduciary duties to protect investors and would cost taxpayers or plan participants money.
Wright-Gladstein and others say the ESG backlash by some Republicans appears to be contributing to a reluctance by big financial institutions to provide climate-friendly investment options in 401(k)s. The big fund managers like Vanguard and State Street have begun to back away from some of their public climate commitments, while Fidelity has been quiet about climate issues. Although these big investment companies do offer mutual funds that are sustainable or even fossil fuel-free, they are not typically offered as part of 401(k) platforms or as the default funds that automatically become a 401(k) mutual fund if an employee doesn’t make a choice. The 401(k) plan advisers that have vast sway on companies as to what plans are offered have shied away from sustainable funds because of “the politics of ESG,” Wright-Gladstein said.
This article by Barbara Grady was originally published on Yale Climate Connections. It is republished here as part of the global journalism collaboration Covering Climate Now.
The Body Shop has announced that its UK and German operations have gone into administration, with its business in other countries also in jeopardy. How did it get here, and what’s next?
A pioneer of cruelty-free beauty and a beloved brand for millions around the world, The Body Shop last week entered administration in the UK and Germany, three months after it changed hands in a deal worth £207M.
The move puts the jobs of more than 2,600 people at risk, and has left its fair trade suppliers in vulnerable countries with over $1M worth of ingredients and stock that may never be paid for. It comes after the brand witnessed disappointing sales over the Christmas period, and it emerged that the cosmetics label had insufficient working capital.
The 48-year-old business is now in jeopardy. Here’s what happened, and what happens next.
The rise and fall of The Body Shop
Courtesy: The Body Shop
Founded by human rights and environmental activist Dame Anita Roddick, the Body Shop grew from a small shop in Brighton to a global business with about 3,000 stores in over 70 countries. Famed for its emphasis on ethics, it was the world’s first cosmetics brand to commit to zero animal testing, way back in 1989.
Roddick was a champion of ethical consumerism and was the face of the company as it won over consumers – especially teenagers – for its cruelty-free products, including bath pearls, body butters, fruit soaps, White Musk fragrance, Hemp hand cream, and the famous Dewberry Perfume Oil.
After three decades of family ownership, The Body Shop entered the corporate world after Roddick sold it to French personal care giant L’Oréal for £652M in 2006. This attracted criticism from many of the brand’s consumers, who labelled it as a betrayal of its ethics and identity, given that L’Oréal’s products had been linked to animal testing and the company was part-owned by Nestlé.
In 2017, L’Oréal sold The Body Shop to Brazilian beauty giant Natura for £880M. But by this time, The Body Shop was no longer the be-all and end-all of the ethical beauty world. After the EU had introduced a blanket ban on animal testing in cosmetics in 2013, its brand identity wasn’t as distinguishable as it once was.
Its product portfolio became more dictated by trends, eliminating fan-favourite SKUs and introducing items thought of as untrue to its identity. There was also a case of too many launches, which clouded out the focus and fuelled already existing overconsumption patterns. The company has – like many – been forced to raise prices, but that has diverted many towards cheaper replicas of its products as the cost-of-living crisis bites.
Many of its customers flocked to competitors like Neal’s Yard, Aesop, Bath and Body Works, and Lush. The latter, for instance, is a business that champions animal welfare, sustainability and workers’ rights too, but is, crucially, still independently owned. There was a sense that The Body Shop – a company that had always been ahead of its time – had stopped evolving with time. Winning over newer consumers, especially Gen Zers, became a challenge.
Last year, The Body Shop – which employs over 10,000 people – was sold once again, but this time to a German private investment firm called Aurelius, which hoped to reinvigorate the brand. However, less than three months later, the cosmetics label is now in all sorts of trouble.
Financial woes lead to administration
Courtesy: The Body Shop
Reports began surfacing earlier this month that The Body Shop – which transformed its entire portfolio to be vegan-friendly last year – was set to appoint administrators, a move aimed at saving the business from liquidity or collapse.
It came a month after Aurelius announced it was selling off The Body Shop’s loss-making operations in most of mainland Europe and parts of Asia to “an international family office”, which is understood to be Alma24, whose majority shareholder Friedrich Trautwein has close ties with Aurelius. The Body Shop’s Ireland and Japan businesses are part of the deal.
“This further prioritises the Body Shop’s strategically important markets and global head franchise partner relationships, which it will look for opportunities to build,” the company told Retail Week at the time. “The Body Shop will also focus on more effectively reaching customers by strengthening digital platforms, developing new sales channels, and via differentiated retail experiences.”
And last week, the company – which recorded a £71M loss in its latest accounts in 2022, down from a £10M profit – appointed administrators for its home market of the UK, where it has over 200 stores, as well as a head office and a distribution centre. “The Body Shop has faced an extended period of financial challenges under past owners, coinciding with a difficult trading environment for the wider retail sector,” said the administrators.
This was swiftly followed by the company entering administration in Germany, where it has more than 400 employees and 60 stores. Staff in Belgium were told that the operation there would face the same fate soon. “The actions being taken may not be wrong, but it is how it is being done that is breaking people’s hearts,” one source told the Guardian. “People are being told with no notice: ‘You work for an unnamed family company,’ when some of these people have been with the company for years, some 30 years. It is so painful.”
Aurelius has faced criticism for its cut-price takeover of the beauty brand, which valued the company at £670M less than what Nature had paid for it six years ago. The private equity firm is facing allegations of failure to make payments worth £3M to around 20 former employees last month.
Is The Body Shop closing down?
Courtesy: The Body Shop
It’s unlikely that The Body Shop will completely disappear, but there will likely be a sea change in the business’s operations. “Administrators will now consider all options to find a way forward for the business and will update creditors and employees in due course,” the company has said, while conforming that it will continue to trade during this period, both in-store and online.
It’s important to note that this doesn’t spell doom for The Body Shop everywhere. While it’s expected to fall into administration in Ireland, Austria and Luxembourg too, its Canada and Australia operations – where it remains successful – are anticipated to remain open.
It’s unclear what this means for The Body Shop in the US, or even in France, Sweden and Spain, where directors haven’t signed documents finalising a transfer of ownership. As the company explained, the administration period “provides the stability, flexibility and security to find the best means of securing the future of The Body Shop and revitalising this iconic British brand”.
While it’s too early to tell how things will pan out, some say there will be a focus on cost reduction – including on property and rents – and building greater online presence. Others expect the brand to survive, but with far fewer stores (numbering 100 in the UK), with Aurelius a likely buyer for a diluted business. Next, the UK’s largest clothing company and parent of Reiss, Victoria’s Secret UK, GAP UK and Cath Kidston (among others), is also thought to be in the running.
One industry expert told the Guardian that The Body Shop wasn’t a brand that could work as a wholesaler. Instead, it would require a chain to ensure efficient communication about ethical sourcing. “If you stick a few products on a shelf in Boots, you would lose the magic,” they said.
It highlights the problem for the cruelty-free beauty pioneer – no one can seem to agree on what to do next. There are hopes that the company can be restructured to appeal to younger shoppers and compete with the likes of Lush, for instance. But there’s a feeling that e-commerce might be the most viable course of action next. For others, there’s a brick-and-mortar charm that is irreplaceable for a company like The Body Shop.
Most agree on one thing though: this is a brand steeped in nostalgia, and they don’t want to see it go. At a time when animal welfare, ethical sourcing, environmental sustainability, and vegan personal care are crucial, it would be against the grain for The Body Shop to say goodbye. Time will tell if it can bounce back.
Christina Dean, founder and CEO of Redress and The R Collective, speaks to Green Queen about the evolution of sustainable fashion, what she’s learnt in her 17 years as an activist, and the impact of online shopping and e-commerce.
A decade ago, we spoke to sustainable fashion icon Christina Dean, founder of the Hong Kong-based charity The R Collective, who said she felt a personal responsibility towards a green, low-impact lifestyle. “I do what I can throughout my life streams, from the values I teach my children about not wasting resources and about caring about what happens to our future world to the consumption choices I make on a daily basis,” she said.
Then, five years on, we caught up with Dean again, who had begun The R Collective, an offshoot fashion brand from Redress. She reflected upon the future of sustainability, female leadership, and zero-waste supply chains. “We all have a slightly different relationship with fashion, and it is okay. Wherever you are within the fashion industry, make your bit more sustainable,” she suggested.
Courtesy: The R Collective
The Redress charity was founded in 2007 and works on inspiring positive environmental change and promoting sustainability in the fashion industry by reducing textile waste, pollution, water and energy consumption. The R Collective, meanwhile, was launched in 2017 as a circular fashion brand that uses rescued textile waste, sourced from luxury brands, mills and manufacturers and upcycling these materials into elegant clothing pieces. A quarter of its profits go back to Redress. “We all need to satisfy our desire for creativity, but it should not come at the cost of the planet,” Dean explained in 2019.
Now, we touched bases with the activist and entrepreneur again, exploring the changes she’s seen in the fashion industry, her growth as a leader, and the evolution of Redress, 17 years from launch.
This interview has been edited for clarity and concision.
Green Queen: We interviewed you 10 years ago (and five years ago too). A lot of the data shows waste is getting worse. How much has changed when it comes to fashion, waste and the Redress mission?
Christina Dean: Redress is 17 years old, and it was fashion’s horrific waste rates that led me to start an NGO focused on reducing textile waste. I stumbled upon fashion’s waste and pollution problems purely by chance as a journalist writing on environmental pollution. At that time (2005/06), fashion’s waste was a ‘hush-hush’ issue, basically swept under the carpet.
Seventeen years on, the cat’s out of the bag on fashion’s highly wasteful and polluting ways. We have data that makes everyone – from the C-suite to everyday citizens – sit up and take notice. One headline estimates that the equivalent of one dumper truck of textiles is either landfilled or incinerated every second around the world. As if that wasn’t a smack in the face, it’s estimated that textile waste is set to increase by about 60% between 2015 and 2030. Left unchanged, the fashion industry is projected to use 26% of the world’s carbon budget by 2050. So, this spells very bad news for the planet.
So with a worsening situation, you might wonder what on earth have we been doing for 17 years if all that we’re seeing is a worsening textile waste landscape! Yes, the reality can be quite dispiriting because, on a bad day, we might feel like we’re on a sinking ship. But on all good days, which are most of them, we continue to strongly believe that the fashion industry is a highly impactful industry to influence positively, so we forge on.
In terms of our mission, over the last 17 years, we have adapted our first founding mission three times to reflect the changes in the problems and solutions that we seek to influence. We’ve gone from “promote sustainable fashion” to “reduce waste in fashion” to now “accelerate the transition towards a circular fashion system by educating designers and consumers to reduce fashion’s negative environmental impacts”. Despite these apparent changes, the essence of our spirit and resolve is unchanged, and that is, basically, to shift fashion from being a polluter to a pioneer.
GQ: How much have you changed as a leader and activist in that time?
Courtesy: Redress
Christina Dean: I’ve grown up so much in 17 years, in so many aspects of my life and work. Looking at the fashion industry, I’ve gone from the early days of pointing angry fingers at various parts of the fashion industry to now wholeheartedly understanding that we must embrace the industry and work within the reality of business and its various parameters. I am very pro-industry as a sustainable way to drive long-term change.
I have also put my pointy fingers away when it comes to consumers. I used to be relatively frustrated and judgmental about what could be considered rather negligent consumers who shop until they drop, so to speak. I am now humbler and more understanding about why consumers love to shop, the deeper psychological desires underpinning this, and I also accept why many are not really that interested in sustainable fashion issues, with so many other competing worries, like how to pay their bills being one obvious example.
I guess 17 years of life – that saw us found Redress and The R Collective and have four kids and get divorced – has given me a better understanding of life and self. So I’m more accepting of the disorder around me, whether that’s in the office, in the supply chain, in an ESG report, or in my own head! Despite this acceptance, I’ve not mellowed at all. I see the urgency to act as being greater than ever before, and so my focus and resolve are as they ever were. I just realise that change happens slowly and that our work is just a few little sprinkles of goodness at this point in time.
GQ: What’s your biggest learning, 17 years later?
Christina Dean: I’ve come to respect the fashion industry, its suppliers, its spinners, weavers, farmers, etc., very deeply, and I see such wonderful and enormous talent, generosity, determination, and humanity and love throughout the business. I’ve met the most incredible activists working in the fastest and cheapest of the big fast-fashion brands; I’ve met recyclers with bigger brains than their machines; and I’ve met CEOs with more conviction for change than prolific activists.
So I’ve come to realise that the humans behind the machines, spreadsheets, steering wheels, and boardrooms of fashion are pretty amazing people, who bring optimism to the challenges at hand. We are all only human, against some inhumanly complex issues, so I’m lucky to work with incredible people.
GQ: Did you plan for Redress to become this big? Was this always your plan or did it get bigger than your original ideas?
Christina Dean at the Redress Design Award 2024 | Courtesy: Redress
Christina Dean: Redress becoming what it is today is a bit of an accident really. When I founded it, I never thought for a moment that 17 years on, I would still be as passionate and excited about the mission as the day I decided to start it. I’m lucky that I am a curious and collaborative person and that this, coupled with a good sense of humour and a glass-half-full nature – which is important when certain things hit the fan! – have enabled Redress to rise from a toddler, tween to teen.
It’s my dream that Redress survives without me – I’m always watching out for that bus; you just never know! We are well on our way now, with a strong board, great executive director and senior management team, and with a longer-term strategy and fundraising approach.
We have a saying at Redress: “I’d rather be a pirate than join the navy.” And this sums up our spirit, so each day remains a hustle in the office as we’re always on our toes for the next rollercoaster ride.
GQ: Did you foresee the negative effects of e-commerce and online shopping?
Christina Dean: Not really. I would not call myself highly astute at consumer trends and habits. That said, it’s obvious that when something becomes cheap and convenient, it takes off. This is as true for takeaways as it is for buying clothes online. So it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to know that the proliferation of e-commerce, especially during COVID, has changed the way we buy clothes – i.e., more, more, more – as indeed e-commerce has changed how some clothes are produced – i.e., more poorer quality fabrics can get away with it online.
I remain shocked by e-commerce’s high return rates, which are around 30% of all purchases globally. I’m personally not a very ‘typical’ fashion consumer, in that I don’t sit around online surfing for clothes that I don’t really want/need, so I find it surprising that people would overconsume styles and sizes and then post clothes back. I’ve seen firsthand the waste this creates because many businesses are unable, for various reasons, to get their customers’ returns back.
With Gen Alpha deemed to be the eco-warrior demographic growing up in an increasingly volatile climate (literally), it’s never a bad thing to teach children about the real world – here are seven of the best climate change books for kids.
Generation Alpha faces a bigger climate threat than the rest of us – 2020-born children could experience seven times more extreme weather events (especially heatwaves) than those born in 1960 – and the cohort has already begun seeing some of its effects.
So perhaps it’s unsurprising that, if you believe one survey from 2021, 67% of kids aged six to nine say saving the planet will be the central mission of their future careers. And their perspectives are touching their parents too, 80% of whom have been influenced to change their consumption behaviours or actions to be more eco-conscious.
It feels like we could learn a thing or two from our children. But if you’re looking to support this generation’s knowledge-building, there are a host of resources out there that can help. Some of them are in the form of climate change books – here are some of the best ones you can get for your kids.
The Lorax
By Dr Seuss
One of the OG climate change books for young ones, Dr Seuss’s 1971 classic stands the test of time even today. The Lorax explores the dangers of taking the Earth for granted through the lens of Once-ler and the Lorax, a creature who speaks on behalf of the trees. There are rhymes and playful illustrations, which help readers better grasp the ideas of greed, deforestation, and short-term profits – all linked to climate change. What’s even better is that the book is printed on recycled paper, which is a great way to introduce the concept of recycling to kids. (There’s also an animated film adaptation of The Lorax from 2012.)
Isabel Thomas’s 2019 book, Moth: An Evolution Story, explains climate change through the evolution story of moths. With powerful visuals, the critically acclaimed title shows how living creatures need the environment to survive, but how human evolution and the changing climate have affected their natural selection. Moths, for example, evolved to have darker wings so they could camouflage themselves better on trees covered with soot, telling a striking tale of climate adaptation and industrial pollution.
You can find Moth: An Evolution Story by Isabel Thomas and Daniel Egnéus (recommended for ages six to 10) online and at various bookstores for $18.99.
Sofia Valdez, Future Prez
By Andrea Beaty (illustrations by David Roberts)
Sofia Valdez, Future Prez is a great book for budding climate activists. It centres around a second-grader whose grandfather hurts his ankle on a local landfill (Mount Trashmore) and can no longer walk her to school every day. Sofia goes to the city hall to get permission to build a park on the site, but is denied permission. With a catchy rhyming scheme, the book tells the story of youthful persistence, as Sofia garners support and finally gets the mayor’s attention. The message is simple and effective: you’re never too young to change the world.
You can find Sofia Valdez, Future Prez by Andrea Beaty and David Roberts(recommended for ages five to seven) online and at various bookstores for $18.99.
Our House is on Fire
By Jeanette Winter
The poster child of Gen Z climate activism, Greta Thunberg’s iconic World Economic Forum speech in 2019 serves as inspiration for Jeanette Winter’s Our House is on Fire: Greta Thunberg’s Call to Save the Planet. The book charts Thunberg’s journey through illustrations and descriptions, including where she learned about climate change, what actions she’s taken (like skipping school every Friday to spark what is now a global climate protest), and how she shows that youngsters can bring about change.
You can buy Our House is on Fire by Jeanette Winter (recommended for ages three to eight) online and at various bookstores for $17.99.
Princess Olivia Investigates: The Wrong Weather
By Lucy Hawkins (illustrations by Zoe Persico)
The first edition of her latest series, Lucy Hawkins’s Princess Olivia Investigates: The Wrong Weather follows Princess Olivia of the Kingdom of Alez, which decided it didn’t want a royal family anymore, leading to the girl losing her home. But she’s excited: she can quit her boring royal lessons and explore nature. However, she’s horrified when she learns what’s happening to the Earth, sparking her mission to help reverse climate change. The book is dotted with facts from scientists, and serves as a driver for children who want to become activists.
You can find Princess Olivia Investigates: The Wrong Weather by Lucy Hawkins and Zoe Persico (recommended for ages six to 10) online and at various bookstores for £7.99.
The Magic School Bus and the Climate Challenge
By Joanna Cole and Bruce Degen
Ms. Frizzle and the Magic School Bus, the celebrated book series that began in 1986, is known for taking readers along the ride for Ms Frizzle’s educational school trips. In The Magic School Bus and the Climate Challenge, the students are taken around the world and shown all the places experiencing the impact of climate change – think melting ice glaciers and rising sea levels. The comic-style book explores greenhouse gas emissions, with students seeing ‘invisible’ CO2 through special glasses and turning into UV rays at one point, and offers solutions to the crisis in the series’ trademark simplicity.
You can find The Magic School Bus and the Climate Challenge by Joanna Cole and Bruce Degen (recommended for ages seven to 10) on Amazon for $23.99.
Climate Change, the Choice is Ours
By David Miles (illustrations by Albert Pinilla)
David Miles’ 2020 interactive reference book Climate Change, the Choice is Ours: The Facts, Our Future, and Why There’s Hope! revels in the binary. Every left-side page covers climate change topics like deforestation, greenhouse gases, rising sea levels, extreme weather, agriculture and more, while every right-side page has a spin wheel that offers readers a choice: leave climate change to do its thing, or address the issue and do something about it. It’s a more advanced book and doesn’t shy away from uncomfortable realities – but it does offer recommendations and hope.
You can find Climate Change, the Choice is Ours by David Miles and Albert Pinilla (recommended for ages seven to 10) on Amazon and various bookstores for $24.99.
A new documentary on food, climate change and agriculture, highlights the wretched state of the American food system, and how regenerative farming, plant-forward diets, healthier soil and increased education can ensure a safe, sustainable and secure food future.
“As a species, what are we doing with our time? How are we consuming this planet?”
It’s a question that forms a backdrop for the entire runtime of Feeding Tomorrow, a new documentary about food and climate change. Over 75 minutes, directors and brothers Oliver and Simon English take viewers through the American food landscape – both literally and figuratively – threading together stories from innovators in the education, health and agriculture sectors to show what the future of food looks like today, and what it could be shaped into instead.
We’re on our way to reaching a population of 10 billion, and the film argues that at current levels, scaling up production to meet those consumption needs is impossible. With agriculture accounting for half of all habitable land (77% of which is dedicated to livestock farming) and 70% of freshwater, there simply will be no space or water left.
But with agrifood a multi-trillion-dollar economy with a workforce of over one billion, there needs to be a solution. “Without addressing the food system, we will not be able to achieve any climate change goals,” says Shenggen Fan, director-general of the International Food Policy Research Institute (IFPRI).
A winner of the 2022 Best Environmental Documentary award at the Los Angeles Documentary Film Festival and of Best Feature Documentary at the Ceres Food Film Festival, Feeding Tomorrow is packed with statistics that come fast and hit hard and revolves mainly around the story of three changemakers across farming, health and education.
Clare Fox, executive director of the LA Food Policy Council, explains: “In the food movement, the critical thing is connecting the dots between all of these different issues – health, food access, the environment, the economy overall – [and] coming together with a common agenda and shared values about what we care for.”
Oliver and Simon English are the sons of renowned Boston-based celebrity chef and TV personality Todd English whose restaurant Olive spawned an F&B empire The Olive Group. The former is a filmmaker, chef, and food advocate and the latter is a cinematographer, editor and creative director. The two co-founded the impact-driven production & hospitality company Common Table Creative, which produced Feeding Tomorrow. In addition, the film was supported by the American Farmland Trust, Regenerate America and the National Resource Defense Council among others,
In a Q&A with Food Tank about the film, Oliver English shared that “the main message that we are trying to get through with this film is that food and our food systems are deeply connected to our personal health, to environmental health, and to the health of our society, and through our individual food choices, we all have a tremendously powerful role to play in the stewardship of our planet.”
Courtesy: Common Table Creative
How the Second World War is connected to our food system today
The first of these innovators is Mark Shepard, founder and farmer at New Forest Farm in Wisconsin. He recalls a story from his time in Alaska, when a neighbour Steve kept felling trees down for years on end, clearing almost 80 acres of land. When Shepard asked Steve why he did so, the response was: “You gotta cut all the trees down if you want to farm the land.”
Reflecting on that, Shepard says in Feeding Tomorrow: “This is how civilised humanity interacts with the Earth: it gets to a place that’s rich and abundant in resources, and it takes them away. It removes all the trees and turns them into toilet paper and boards and whatnot – well then, what’s left?”
The documentary takes us back to the Dust Bowl, and how a failure to protect our soil led to crops dying out. This was followed by the Green Revolution when we realised there were gases in the oil and petroleum left over from the Second World War and turned them into fertilisers for crops. This coincided with the chemical industry pivoting from a class of chemicals for warfare into glyphosate – whose carcinogenic status varies, depending on who you ask – a known carcinogen, for the food industry.
The importance of soil and how it’s treated is a big talking point in the film, which connects soil health directly to human health. Plus, it shines a light on concentrated animal feeding operations (or CAFOs), explaining how some of them can produce more sewage than all of Los Angeles. Animals in these farms are usually given growth hormones too, and they’re subjected to 80% of all antibiotics used in the US.
Courtesy: Common Table Creative
Research shows that 99% of all American livestock is factory-farmed, numbering 10 billion animals (nearly nine billion of these are chickens). Apart from the animal abuse aspect, this has massive implications for the environment too – animal agriculture is responsible for 11-19.5% of global emissions, and meat accounts for 60% of the food system’s total emissions. By far, the worst of these is beef, whose emissions are twice as high as the next food on the list.
A lot is made of soy and corn production as well – but 77% of all soy grown goes to animal feed, which was also the source for 35% of corn cultivation in the US in 2020 (a further 31% was used for biofuels). “It can take eight pounds of corn and soy to make one gallon of milk, and… 10 pounds of corn and soy blend to make one pound of beef,” says Shepard. “And so that’s really stupid. Because we could grow 90% less corn and beans if we didn’t feed it to animals.”
Rishi Kumar, founder of Sarvodaya Farm in California, adds: “If you look at a corn and soy field, and what does that food turn into? Basically processed food, junk food, and animal feed. It doesn’t go anywhere else.”
The importance of eating the rainbow
The documentary then moves to Lisa McDowell, director of clinical nutrition and wellness at St Joseph Mercy Hospitals. She has worked with US Olympics teas and the Detroit Red Wings ice hockey team, helping them gain the 1% edge through nutrition and healthcare that she claims is the difference between first place and 100th.
The grim nature of the US food supply is illustrated by a story about how McDowell went to Whole Foods to shop for her father – who had just recovered from cancer – because what was available at the hospital “wasn’t good enough”. It’s a shocking idea, a doctor not trusting her own hospital’s food for patient health (she punctuates this point by explaining how one of the main ingredients in the oral supplements available was high-fructose corn syrup).
Courtesy: Common Table Creative
This highlights another problem: even an expert like McDowell was too focused on the biochemical aspect of food, and took a while to realise the fallacies of the system. Without a nutrition degree, how easy is it for an average American to create a grocery cart that is optimum for their health?
McDowell and her team came up with a list of foods that can impact gene expressions in the human body, finding that the same foods that fuel elite athletes are the ones that can impact outcomes for cancer. She espouses the concept of eating the rainbow – consuming foods of different colours (obtained from phytonutrients), the brighter and deeper being the better.
She spearheaded a project to return 25 of the hospital’s 365-acre area back to farmland, making it the first US hospital that had a farm connect the food that it grows directly to its patients. “We believe food is medicine and that it can prevent disease, or if you do have a disease, it can reverse it,” McDowell explains.
She further touches upon meat consumption and the average American’s eating habits. “They think they’re getting something beneficial and healthy, but they’re being misled. The standard American diet is incredibly processed: processed meats, food from a box. The most harmful foods, in my opinion, are processed meats.” Red and processed meats have been classed as carcinogens by the WHO, in the same vein as pollutants like tobacco smoke and plutonium. Studies have also found that eating 50g of processed meat daily increases the risk of colorectal cancer and coronary heart disease by 18% each.
Kids should get their hands dirty
The third main feature of the documentary revolves around Codman Academy, a charter public school in Dorchester, Massachusetts, and its head Thabiti Brown. He highlights how the American education system places an outsized emphasis on high scores, four-year college admission numbers, and attendance, alongside traditionally vaunted subjects like maths or science – but there’s little focus on wellness or mental health.
Brown links mental health to the food system, and how products like ultra-processed foods can cause harm. These foods – while not all bad – have been linked to depression, depression and cognitive decline. So it doesn’t help that UPFs make up 70% of what American children eat.
“Our students in most schools are eating high levels of processed food, high in sugar, high in fats, high in sodium, and because they’re inexpensive, and they’re easy to package and sell,” says Brown. “But we know that when we go to more well-resourced communities, that’s not always the case. In fact, it’s far less the case.”
Courtesy: Common Table Creative
He goes on to explain how the local area has always had places with more packaged foods than fresh produce, a challenge mirrored in many urban neighbourhoods across the country, especially in Black and Brown areas. Processed foods are also associated with obesity, whose incidence is considerably higher in non-Hispanic Black Americans (50%), than non-Hispanic white adults (41%).
Brown explains the need for practical holistic education to show how food is connected to our well-being, where students can get their hands dirty and see seeds turn into fruition. The idea is that there’s no better environmental educational tool than a school garden, and the hope is that some of the students grow up to be urban farming entrepreneurs to help shape a more sustainable and beneficial food system.
Codman Academy puts its money where its mouth is, having invested in a chef to create healthy foods from scratch every day, which focus on high quality and flavour and are comprised of produce from local farms. It’s an expensive undertaking, especially for a charter school, but “it’s who we are”, notes Brown.
What’s for dinner? Start questioning your plate
Feeding Tomorrow ties all these stories into a call to transition towards regenerative agriculture, which it defines as “farming practices that promote biodiversity, topsoil growth, carbon sequestration, animal integration and resilience”. There’s an example of the animal part of that equation from Shepard’s farm, where cows and hogs – all rescued from CAFOs – leave mineral-rich urine and manure that naturally fertilises the soil.
“Drop the McDonald’s burger,” he suggests. “Drop the feedlot beef. Then, let’s use them in their natural function to maintain these strops of greenery through the entire agricultural landscape of the USA and around the world. And it’s a heck of a lot more sustainable and has a lower carbon footprint than a CAFO model would.”
The farmer explains how a third of all farmable land on Earth has been lost in the last 40 years alone. But what if, instead of making the land adapt to our needs, we humans listen and adapt to what the land has been doing forever? Terming this approach “restoration agriculture”, he recommends moving our staple foods from annual plants (as we currently do) to perennials. But can that be scalable and feed everyone, everywhere? Only if more and more of us take the plunge, Shepard says.
“There’s a whole downstream effect: the healthier the soil, healthier plants, healthier animals, healthier humans. That’s just the way it is, it works that way,” he adds.
Courtesy: Common Table Creative
This is brought up at other points in the documentary too. There’s a direct connection between unhealthy soil and unhealthy people because, without the essential micronutrients in the former, you’re putting yourself at risk of developing chronic health problems. Last year, Americans spent over four trillion dollars on healthcare, but so much of that is avoidable. In 2019, when this figure was at $3.8B, one study revealed that between 20-25% of healthcare spending is wasteful. The film connects this to the US food system, which can drastically reduce this number.
Other themes explored in Feeding Tomorrow are the importance of smallholder farmers (who provide over a third of the global food supply); food waste, composting and upcycling; and policy intervention. “Until we start to shift the priorities of our economy towards a healthier population, we’re going to continue to have this issue of tremendous inequality in our food system,” notes Anastasia Cole Plakias, co-founder and COO of Brooklyn Grange Rooftop Farm.
It’s important to note that the film places heavy emphasis on shifting away from meat production and consumption and upping our intake of whole foods. “The diet of tomorrow is going to be primarily plant-based,” explained Fan from IFPRI. “There will be some beef – not zero. Make sure that every iota of the beef that they do eat produces manure that is actually applied to fields and is doing its magic.”
As English tells VegNews, “Visiting and learning from all of these farmers has shown me firsthand how truly powerful our food choices are…And it begins with where we are getting our food, the farms and farmers we are supporting, and what we decide to eat. It includes putting plants at the center of your plate, and eating lots of colors.”
It’s a fast-paced documentary that’s chock full of numbers, success stories, expert opinions and hard evidence. At times, when presented one after the other, the stats can be a little too much, though you can’t argue against their efficacy. It’s also highly quotable, notably on Shepard’s part, but it works.
“What are you going to eat for dinner tonight? Start asking the questions,” implores Shepard. “Where was it grown? How was it grown? … What impact on the planet did it have? How it was processed… How it was transported, where it was transported from and to. What impact does it have when I take it into my home and how do I prepare it? What happens with the leftovers? … Do they go to a landfill?”
He concludes: “We need to begin to investigate every aspect of our lives, and let’s start with what’s on the plate tonight for dinner.”
Feeding Tomorrow is out now and can be streamed on various platforms including Apple TV, Prime Video, Vudu, Google Play, and YouTube.
Ever the darling of the UK’s plant-based space – with a recipe book that sold faster than any other vegan cookbook ever – Ella Mills retreated from the limelight a few years ago. Her brand, Deliciously Ella, suffered setbacks from the pandemic too. But now, both founder and company are back in the headlines and .
“It was easier to be quiet,” said Ella Mills. “[Being silent] doesn’t feel good either but I found all the attacks a massive, massive adjustment.”
The 32-year-old entrepreneur was speaking to the Times ahead of the release of her latest cookbook, Healthy Made Simple, and her plant-based brand Deliciously Ella’s entry into the US. Beginning as a food blogger (then known as Ella Woodward), she “cured” her autoimmune disease through a whole-food plant-based diet. An heiress of the Sainsbury family, she became a household name in the UK as one of her generation’s clean-eating pioneers (a moniker she never assumed herself).
Now an author of eight cookbooks (with over 1.5 million copies sold), her 2015 title Deliciously Ella became the fastest-selling debut cookbook in the UK at the time, before her 2018 book Deliciously Ella: The Plant-Based Cookbook broke records as the fastest-selling vegan cookbook ever. These coincided with a growing retail and foodservice brand – with products in most supermarkets, as well as three cafés and delis in London – as Mills and her business partner/husband Matthew expanded Deliciously Ella’s empire.
But then came the online attacks. Mills’ huge profile was the subject of relentless trolling – as is unfortunately the case with most famous women – and led her to withdraw from the spotlight. “Until quite recently I really, really retreated because I felt overwhelmed,” she said. “I wanted to be essentially vanilla.”
Courtesy: Sophia Spring
Criticism for eating disorders and motherhood
Mills’ reputation as a clean-eating expert wasn’t a reflection of what she had ever said, but regardless, the entrepreneur and influencer was panned for it. “We’re not talking someone saying: ‘That recipe wasn’t for me’ or ‘I don’t like your jeans’ – it was much more personal than that, on steroids. It’s incredibly violating and you can only take so much of it,” she explained.
The bullying she faced was born out of two main problems. In 2016, a BBC Three documentary, Clean Eating’s Dirty Secrets, shed light on orthorexia, an eating disorder characterised by an obsessive pursuit of a healthy diet. Personalities like Mills – whose vegan recipes spanned sugar- and gluten-free with a focus on health – came under fire, with many blaming the entrepreneur (among others) for fuelling these issues.
This hit Mills – who had never used the term “clean eating” – hard. “I wrote clearly in the first book: ‘Do what works for you’, ‘Adapt it to suit your life’ – but that’s nuanced. You have to read it to see it,” she told the Telegraph in 2022. The criticism boiled down to “a few pieces that were just personal attacks on a young woman in her early 20s, who’d had a bad health problem”, she said.
This was in reference to her diagnosis of postural tachycardia syndrome (when getting up from sitting or lying down can cause an abnormally high heart rate) in the early 2010s, which confined her to constant hospital visits for four months and over two dozen medications. “I was on 25 different medications a day. Changing the way I ate allowed me to regain my health again. That’s the best thing I’ve ever done, and we’ve seen story after story from people where that has been the case,” she told the Times. “But no blanket rule applies to everyone for the rest of their life.”
This is an issue that she feels plagues attitudes towards healthy eating. “Healthy habits are challenging. Not one size fits all, but also not one size will also fit one person for the rest of their life,” she told the Irish Independent. “That’s a mad way of thinking and it’s why the conversation around healthy eating is so deeply frustrating, because people are on a bandwagon, off a bandwagon, instead of finding habits they can keep continuously, but also dip in and out of as ebbs and flows, and that’s even more so with kids.”
Courtesy: Deliciously Ella
Motherhood was the other topic she encountered the internet’s vitriol for. Mills has previously spoken about her struggle with breastfeeding her first daughter, Skye, giving up after four months. Then, she put a picture of Skye on Instagram with a bottle in the background, which contained formula. “People went absolutely berserk,” she recalled to the Times.
They threatened to report her to the UK’s Advertising Standards Authority for feeding “artificial” milk to her baby, saying it’s illegal to promote formula. Many of them levelled accusations of lying and not trying everything. But it didn’t just stop at the breastfeeding – she was criticised for going back to work too soon (Mills returned to work four weeks after her child’s birth as “people relied on me”).
“I had her with me at a book shoot and it was ‘You’re a terrible parent’, ‘You’ll regret that for the rest of your life.’ It felt very loaded,” she said, calling it “by far one of the most challenging things I’ve ever done”.
In a piece for Grazia last October, she described how her mental health struggles were exacerbated after becoming a mother: “I saw myself as a failure, as unlovable, as someone that people couldn’t like. I’d take any negative feedback, no matter how minor or objective, as validation for that belief. I didn’t trust myself, and I think that lack of self-belief snowballed when I became a parent.”
Deliciously Ella goes global
Now, though, Mills is past all the pain. “For the first time in 32 years, I’m happy,” she wrote in Grazia. “I’m also present, I’m no longer scared of everything and I love parenting. I trust myself. I love myself – flaws and all – and I know that I have the tools I need to keep those foundations in place forever.”
And that dogged determination to succeed on a personal level has translated into the professional too, with Deliciously Ella going from strength to strength, despite some setbacks – two of the company’s cafés were closed pre-pandemic, and the third (in Mayfair) was turned into upscale restaurant Plants by DE, which struggled initially but is thriving now.
The retail brand’s numbers are staggering. With over 100 health-forward products – think energy balls, kombucha, granola, pasta and baked veggie crisps – the company has sold nearly 88 million units and is present in more than 10,000 stores across the UK and the EU. That equates to one Deliciously Ella product being purchased every second, according to the Times. And earlier this month, its products entered Asda and Co-op, meaning they’re stocked in every supermarket in the UK.
Courtesy: Deliciously Ella
All this helped the business generate an estimated £25M ($31.8M) in revenue last year, according to Fortune. Now, it has brought its production in-house by purchasing a factory in Milton Keynes (and saving 27 jobs in the process) and is crossing the Atlantic with an expansion into the US – a huge undertaking. It’s not the first time Mills – who recently advocated for a tax on meat and ultra-processed foods (UPFs) – has attempted to take the brand stateside, with plans in 2020 thwarted by the pandemic.
“It’s the biggest opportunity – and in lots of ways the biggest risk,” Mills said of the US expansion in an interview with Fortune. “It’s infinitely bigger and infinitely more complex. You can end up investing everything into the US, in terms of time and energy resources, taking it all away from the core market.”
What will help Deliciously Ella is the gap in Americans’ attitudes towards the kind of recipes Mills has built her fortune out of, and the products their supermarket shelves are stocked with. “[Americans] are up to a decade ahead of where we are in conversations around health and wellness,” Mills said, before adding: “Ingredient decks in the US are infinitely worse in terms of the level of artificial ingredients.”
A survey of 2,000 Americans published in October revealed that 67% of respondents would be willing to pay more for UPFs if they contained more nutritious ingredients that delivered better health benefits, irrespective of their household income. This is exactly the market Deliciously Ella is hoping to tackle. While it has started with a listing in health food retailer Thrive Market, the plan is to reach mass-market grocery stores.
It’s something Mills outlined to Fortune, saying: “In time, that’s what we’d like to do in the US – make these healthier options available everywhere.”
Exercise can be more sustainable now, thanks to Community Clothing’s new Organic Athletic sportswear line, which is free from plastics and can decompose in your garden in as little as a week.
Community Clothing, the sustainable clothing brand and social enterprise by Scottish fashion designer Patrick Grant, has launched a plastic-free and compostable sportswear line, inspired by clothing materials from the 70s.
Called Organic Athletic, the 13-strong range eschews the typical use of non-biodegradable, oil-based synthetic plastic materials – chiefly polyester, nylon, polyurethane and elastane – in sports clothing, and opts for plant-based textile technology instead.
70s materials inspire new sportswear range
Courtesy: Community Clothing
“Roger Bannister broke the four-minute mile wearing cotton shorts, a cotton vest and leather shoes. And I played rugby as a kid wearing clothes made from all natural materials,” Grant told the Financial Times. “None of us thought we were wearing rubbish stuff at the time.”
His childhood inspired him to explore “if it was possible to make good sportswear out of the materials we used until the late 1970s”. The new collection is a result of five years of R&D, comprising shorts, sweatshirts, T-shirts and running vests.
Made from woven or knitted certified organic cotton, as well as natural Austrian woven rubber for the shorts, Grant sourced organic athletic wear from this period on eBay. Finding most of them in Germany, he reverse-engineered each piece to assess its yarn count and durability. He explained that the toughest part was to replace elastic use.
“Elastics are made from elastane, which is synthetic and oil-based,” he said. But it’s a key tool for durability, given cotton threads are susceptible to breakages. “We had to beef up the diameter of the thread.” The resulting collection – for both men and women – is fatter in appearance, but carries a retro look akin to vintage college varsity kits, and is suitable for a variety of sports and training activities.
Sportswear’s plastic problem
Courtesy: Community Clothing
Plastics and synthetic fibres like elastane (made from polyurethane), nylon, polyester and acrylic have been used in sportswear for decades for stretchability and breathability, quick-drying and waterproofing capabilities, and thermal protection. While some brands have turned to recycled fibres for eco-friendlier clothing, they still shed microplastics into the oceans and soil.
These are harmful in more ways than one. Scientists suggest that a third of all plastic waste ends up in soil or freshwater, disintegrating into microplastics that enter the food chain. These tiny particles have already been discovered in the human body, and one study estimates that we eat 5g of microplastics per week on average (about the same as eating a credit card’s worth of plastic). In fact, there are 14 million tonnes of microplastics on the ocean floor and 24 trillion pieces of microplastic on the ocean surface.
But there is an awareness issue here. A 2023 survey by global sail racing league SailGP – covering 1,500 people in the UK, US and Switzerland – found that 54% of respondents were unaware of potential toxins hiding in synthetic technical sportswear. Having said that, 72% said they’d prefer plastic-free sportswear if available. It’s these attitudes that prompted plastic-free fashion label Mover to debut a six-piece capsule collection in collaboration with SailGP, made predominantly from organic cotton, merino wool and water-based printing methods.
And while UK-based Stripe & Stare offers a TENCEL Modal-based shirt that it claims is 100% biodegradable, it contains 5% elastane. It makes the Community Clothing Organic Athletic one of the only (if not the only) sportswear ranges that are both plastic-free and compostable. Once they reach the end of life, these clothes can be shredded and added to your compost heap – within a short time, ranging from a week to five months depending on your soil, they will fully decompose and leave no remains.
“Community Clothing Organic Athletic represents the most radical change in sportswear in two generations,” Grant said in a statement. “Moving away from oil-based sports clothes to 100% natural and biodegradable means now you can exercise and play sport and not harm the planet in the process.”